Chaps and ladies if you have had the bike set up then please be kind enough to share with others what settings are working for you. Please include your kitted weight, what settings you have ended up with, which tyres you had on at the time (profile) and any other info that maybe of use. As Barry has kindly mentioned Dave Moss then we should stick this very useful link in http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mK3flKxf41U&feature=player_embedded#!
Here's the settings i found on 1000RR.net from Dave Moss and i'm using them on my stock 09 Blade at the mo. Copied and pasted; We have a year and a half of development with this bike so we know it really well! Here's some detailed information for you in regards to the bike (and I am need to know your weight to give precise recommendations): (Rider with riding gear was = 210Lbs or 15 Stones) Forks: - leave in the stock position in the triple clamps - set preload to 4 turns in from full soft - set rebound at 1 turn out from full stiff - set compression at 2 turns out from full stiff Shock: - preload +1 firmer from the stock position - set compression to 1.5 turns out from full stiff - set rebound at 2 turns out from full stiff The rear shock needs to be 5mm longer so putting a Dunlop on it does the trick due to its large circumference. A Michelin 2CT will have the same effect. Tire circumference: Even though all tires come with a size cast into the sidewall, none have the same circumference. For example a Dunlop Qualifier is up to 2.5" smaller in circumference than a GP209 track tire. Therefore every set of tires will change the geometry of the bike, so measuring what you had and what is going on will let you know if you have a front or rear bias with the chassis due to the circumference of the new tires. You can then change the position of the forks in the triple clamps to compensate. The Honda does not permit you to add more length to the rear shock by using spacers or washers, much like the GSXR's do. In lieu of that, in order to get the correct swing arm angle you need to get a large circumference rear tire to assist in creating a 'band aid' fix. Hope that makes sense!
Thanks for the above chap Does anybody have the stock settings (as the Rear shock preload+1 from standard settings is worthless to me without this)
Yeah mines about the same except for the ... i also emailed Dave Moss gave him my details which were 95lbs maybe that is the difference on the preload Shock: - preload +1 firmer from the stock position (mine is the standard position)
Taken from my owners manual for a standard 09; Forks: Preload from full soft, turn clockwise 6 turns Rebound from full hard, counterclockwise 2 1/4 turns Compression from full hard, counterclockwise 2 1/4 turns ABS model or counterclockwise 2 turns non ABS model Shock; Rebound from full hard, counterclockwise 2 1/4 turns ABS model or counterclockwise 2 turns non ABS model Compression from full hard, counterclockwise 2 1/4 turns ABS model or counterclockwise 2 turns non ABS model Preload, standard postion is number 4. Hope that helps.
Oh I see Slowr1der, So I spend £100s of pounds on a suspension set up for my Blade and then you want all these settings for free? Do you want me to come and set your bike up for you as well? If I still have my set up sheets/data on my old Blade( Was a race bike though.) I will post it up for you. Thats figures before I fitted after market forks, shocks and wheels.
Thankyou and you are more than welcome to come and set my bike up if you like i have previously spent £££££s on getting my bikes set up but the Blade isnt playing ball with me at the moment. Please don't think that these settings are just for me they are for use to all members on the forum as i am sure that when this thread starts to fill up with different riders settings people will really appreciate it.
Gave these settings a go this evening except that my rear preload is set at stock +2. Initial thoughts are the steering feels a lot lighter than what i had previously set up. Now i have only done about 2 miles, it was dark and cold and i wasnt pushing the bike in anyway nor did i really get any corners in other than a large roundabout. Hopefully during this week i will be able to get out on the bike and test the settings a little more in warmer conditions and get the bike and tyres upto a suitable temp. Will report back more when i do but thanks Barry
Update - 21/03/12 test rode the bike on the Andover to Newbury road at about 1730 hours. Bike felt soo much better. It turned in quicker, the steering felt lighter and the bike behaved through the corners. For the first time since owning the bike I felt comfortable in winding the power on through the corner knowing the bike would respond as I wanted it too. To me the bike now feels like a whole new machine, it is definitely in the territory of my old GSXR 750k7 for handling now which was the best handling bike I have owned so far. I may loosen the preload on the rear by 1 and see how she acts then but I am really pleased with the results so far. Barry many thanks for sharing your settings with me and the forum
I'm really glad they work for you too mate, I can't take the credit for them . Over the years I’ve gained more information from forums then I have ever given in return, that’s the beauty of forums like this and the people on them.
Hi mate, After doing Donington again yesterday on the new tyres I was having a conversation with my mate last night and he was saying that my blade was bogging down each time on gear changes but bouncing quite a bit, that maybe the reason why the tyres let go once or twice. I'm looking at getting the suspension done but wondered if these settings have worked well for you on track at all? Im 16st fully kitted
Not been on track with these settings mate so can't comments however they work for me on the road and I am prob near on 18st fitted I would imagine.
That's great, I'm more 16.5st kitted I reckon (although the mrs just chuckled in the background) and I just found the set up yesterday a bit wobbly in the bends at high speed, tyre wear was good but keeping the rear planted was hard as it kept lifting after the compression at the rear on gear changes. I'll give this a whirl I reckon, I take it that its much firmer on the road?
Yes I have found that its staying more online and not drifting wide as much anymore, altho I took the mrs out on the back on Saturday and found my wrists were hurting a tad more after 150 miles
Could your wrist be hurting because when you brake firmly, your Mrs weight is pushed forward onto you, thus her extra weight is loading your wrists more then normal?????? Try gripping your tank more with your thighs as you enter the braking zone if you are not already, this with help you with unloading your wrists and more importantly the front suspension.
That's the problem. You've got a missus. If you were single you'd have built those wrist muscles up by now.
Thanks I think its more a case of suspension has been stiffened up and the roads are so fecking bumpy lol
