Ok cool HID would be better in that case but I only just fitted my nose cone and I'm too lazy to do it all again so I would go for the other one due to ease
The online price currently works out at around £55 unisured delivery. I'd be up for a group buy depending on price, otherwise i'd just buy a low wattage H7 bulb & holder for under a tenner and swap between bulbs during mot time.
If you buy H7R lamps they form much the same pattern as a filament lamp so no reason why it would fail the MOT, but then what do most testers know about HID kits, lamp types and regs.....lol Not much In my experience.....
Would that give you twin lights? Sorry may have to dumb this down for me I'm crap with electrics, but if it's as simple as changing a bulb I will just do that I can prob just about manage that one
It would, but the real question is how similar would they look bearing in mind the difference in lens. Also, will the standard wiring carry the extra drain without overheating. Its easy enough to wire in a 2nd bulb connector for just a few quid including the extra bulb, or use the full beam bulb holder if a H7 fits in it, but i would be tempted to stick a resistor inline with the 2nd bulb so as not to blind oncoming drivers.
Well at the moment I'm riding around with no headlights or high beam as they've stopped working (but the 'pass' flash still works)
Obviously check the fuses, but if you have a wiring diagram then i can have a look at causes for you.
Hey i just had a thought. H4 bulbs have a twin filament, one for dipped beam and one for main. Thinking aloud, I could try a 3 pin H4 plug & bulb in the main beam lamp so the main beam still works, but dipped gets a supply from the other side, which can simply be disconnected at mot time to stop the dipped beam coming on in main beam lamp. I'll experiment with this over the weekend if i have time and let you know how i get on.
Yes, that's where fitting a resistor inline with the bulb supply comes in, as this would reduce the power of the bulb It will still mean switching it back at mot time, but at least they will look the even from the front of the bike.
Ye, whilst typing on my laptop! I was going to sort it last night but just couldn't be arsed stripping off the LH fairing. I've checked the bulbs as they're easy to get to and they're fine. I'll dig into it today!
Only if using a H4 bulb, if it fits. I'll see if I have one in the garage later. Using another H7 would only duplicate the dipped beam, which is probably why the Double Tronics box costs £55 as it reduces power to the H7 bulb for the dipped beam and then allows full power for the main beam, using the same bulb for both purposes.
OK, here are my findings. A H4 bulb will fit the H7 holder if you butcher the H4 metal section with a hacksaw, the bikes H7 plug will also fit back onto the new bulb, leaving you to add a spade socket to power the 3 pin H4 bulb so that its dipped beam comes on. I would advise that the power for this extra connection is not taken directy from the other bulb though as i think it would drain too much. Instead you can add a relay to feed the 2nd bulb from the battery. Having said all of that, i read up on the MOT regs for bikes and it turns out that they only test the dipped beam. Which means that the simplest method (as mentioned earlier by one of the other members) is actually just to turn on the main beam. Fortunately this beam can be lowered by simply turning the top screw on the rear of the headlight housing and you wont need to adjust it back at mot time, although you will effectively lose your high beam. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eyXUnfbATNQ Hows this for another free mod :-D
That's why they only put 1 on, cars were pulling out in front of bikes in the dark, then claiming they thought the 2 lights were a car in the distance not a bike on top of them
That's exactly what it looked like, like a car that was further away. Blades are for riding in the day if you ask me
