Hey all, well where do I start...I've recently changed the engine on my 04 cbr1000rr my old engine's gearbox was gone and I managed to get another engine with alot of nice extra's on it....my old engine used to start but before I changed it suddenly stopped starting, I never thought much off it as I was changing engine anyway. Now I've got the new engine in and everything fitted correctly, it won't start, fuel pump priming well and u can smell the unburnt fuel fumes engine Turning over well with alot of compression I've checked side stand switch, that's fine, engine stop button, crank shaft sensor fine and so on I pulled the ignition coil out put a spark plug on it and zero spark, only thing I can think of is the ecu gone, is there anything else you can think of trying? I've made sure I've got all the injector plugs on the right order and stuff, really am stuck its £250 for a ecu and key and a expensive mistake if I'm wrong! Cheers Doug
If you are lucky try and find somebody from here near you with an RR4 and see if you can swap them over to test, or if really lucky a breaker may have a working RR4 and test it for you - cannot think of any other way to be sure - assume the HISS light is going off?
From what I've seen the ignition coil is the plug that goes on top of the spark plug it has 2 cables to each which more or less go straight into the ecu
Yeah the hiss light is off, I'd imagine if the hiss wasn't working it wouldn't of pumped fuel around or tried turning engine but I'm not sure, I've heard the ecu's from America don't have hiss so was thinking buying one of them, but not sure if the settings on ecu would be diff for emissions etc but maybe using a power commander etc would bypass that. It's a total mine field, I'm in Inverness so not got any breakers or bike shops around will just have to dig deep and pay up I imagine.
martin,they use coil sticks. well does sound like an existing problem,not with the new engine or fitting. if the ecu was fried then i doubt you'd be getting any fuel through,but not sure exactly how it works tbh.
Something I've not checked yet to be honest, as when looking through diagrams of the wiring system it all seemed hooked up to starter motor so I thought if something on that circuit was faulty the bike wouldn't be turning over. The manuals not to bad but wish it went into a bit more detail on the fault section!
Daft question but why did you not just swap the cassette gear box, rr4-7 one of few true cassette gearboxes half hour to swap them over... most tuned motors need much (aftermarket ecu, airbox, etc etc) more to get the best from them...?
The engine was starting to use alot of oil and smoking really bad, used her for 2 euro trips 3000 miles a time and riding 550miles a day sometimes, so I was starting to worry about it. At the time couldn't find a gearbox for a decent price and found my new engine with STM slipper clutch and hrc gearbox etc for a steal so that was that lol but like I said the old engine stopped working aswel so this is why I'm thinking ecu. looking up the now to try get them repaired aswel so here's hoping they get back in touch and can do it.
thats something i've missed about my older blade,could swap my gear box in no time when i took out my HRC box,engine in situ.but the 08 had to be dropped. not many bikes you can do that on now
dug,1 thing you'll notice with the HRC box is that it's a but "snatchy" in 2nd gear at lower speeds due to there only being 3 dogs on the gears,fine when your up in the higer revs+gears though. had similar issues regarding smoking with 1 of my engines,main reason is due to the fact they dont use liners in the barrels so do wear under heavy/hard use.
Yeah she was only about 16,000 miles so was pretty surprised her smoking so bad as I've seen many of them above 30 odd thou miles and running sweet, my nephew had his gearbox go around 16 thou miles on his 04 aswel mine was pretty much me being a tit in Europe trying to pop wheelies! lol The oil usage was pretty bad tho was like riding a 2 stroke used a litre of oil in 3000 miles. Is there any specialists on the forum that you know if I could pick there brain?
dont know on here,think arthurbike is your best bet. but i'd be doing this 1st. check tilt sensor is connected+fitted correctly. check every plug+coil stick check fuel is going through the fuel rail i'll ask around if there is a way to check the ecu,and what else could cause a spark failure.
Cheers, as said tbh.. Check the pins in the ECU plug sometimes one can pop back in the plug! Had a old blade last year every man and his dog looked at, they got new ECU, coils and so on, I found ONE pin popped back in the connector and that's all it was! Re check as said by the others your connectors etc, most of the time if the TILT switch it out the pump does not prime, double check that kill switch too and be sure you don't have any HISS errors. Few dealers can check ECUs off the bike. You could try and find someone to try your ECU on his/her bike in case you have a loom fault that could fry another ECU! always worth doing IMO. It's possible the ECU is dead but rare if you ask me...
Cheers Guys, I'm going to have another go again tomorrow night hopefully so here's hoping, I've got a alarm, power commander, ignition module for quick shifter so I think I'll disconnect all these aswel incase one is at fault. I'll keep you's posted and thanks again!
Was speaking to motomatrix via email, very helpful bunch and got this, To repair your ecu would mean to open the ecu (incased in a rubber compound)and locate the damage , from experience your problem is damage / fracture to the circuit board or processor. If the curcit board, then this cannot be repaired. This would not be sorted by flash programming the ecu , as flash programming only changes data in the microprocessors. We can check the ecu for you , the cost is £80 + vat . As you have a no spark problem ( very common when this model ecu breaks down) I feel we would be taking your money to diagnose a problem that is a common fault. Very common apparently?, but he has directed me to one for sale with key for £150 so atleast if it does end up to be this it's not the end of the world.
I have a RR4 and have fitted a RR7 motor with no problems, however if its been wired up incorrectly the ECU would go into safe mode meaning it would start up with all sensors, steering damper disabled including the fuel mapping with just a get you home program. If connection is in direct conflict it could have damaged the ECU. There were over 200 improvements between the RR4-5 and the RR6-7 swapping clutch/ gearbox should have no effect on igntion start up. My gut feeling is that tilt sensor in the fairing cockpit ii disconnected or re located upside down. Arrow should be pointing UP. Worth a try DJ
if you read the 1st post,he says it stopped before the engine swap.also it doesn't start,so no limp mode.no idea what you mean regarding clutch+gearbox though. good to see you've got some proper advice,although never knew it was a common fault(1st i've heard of in fact,and been around blades for 6yrs now),obviously apart frm the few i know that have wired wrong and fried it. is this for a road bike or track bike?
