New RR5 - so what?

Discussion in 'General 1000RR Discussion' started by DarrylCBR, Mar 5, 2013.

  1. robinh73

    robinh73 Well-Known Member

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    No I actually left it in place. Was toying with cutting it off, but decided to leave it be as any future owner may want to revert back to the original set up.
     
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  2. PatrickH

    PatrickH New Member

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    I've had my RR-5 a bit longer than you - by about 2 weeks, I have Akrapovic system on with PowerCommander, sprockets are not original ratio, but haven't got bobbins or stand sorted yet, so haven't counted them, but having gone thru a local speed-check where the sign said 29 and my speedo read 36, I know that my first mod will be to fit a speedoHealer.
    Enjoy, you got the right colour!
     
  3. DarrylCBR

    DarrylCBR New Member

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    Hi Patrick,

    Congrats on the new ride mate! I have the Akro as well so will deffo be looking to get a power-commander installed with better filters, and dyno set up.

    Im not sure the gearing ratio would impact the speedo setting would it? The speed you're doing is being recorded, right!? Could it be the speedo itself? I read they had an issue and there was a Honda recall. I read it in this MCN article: Honda CBR1000RR Fireblade (2004-2005) - Honda Motorcycle Reviews

    Hope this helps :)
     
  4. PatrickH

    PatrickH New Member

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    There's another thread debating this. In short, the speedo is fed from an engine feed, so if you change the sprockets, then the actual speed will vary from what the engine thinks. For the same front sprocket speed of rotation, the speed of the rear will vary according to the ratio of teeth front:back
     
  5. DarrylCBR

    DarrylCBR New Member

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    That makes sense. I have no idea if its driven by wheel speed or engine computation - and the latter is more probable eh!

    Im trying to find a link on how to do the flapper mod. I know ive got a vacuum pipe to remove, but id like to make sure i pull and block the right one ;) And is it supposed to be open/closed before puling etc... I found a link last week but didnt save it. Have you done it?
     
  6. PatrickH

    PatrickH New Member

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  7. DarrylCBR

    DarrylCBR New Member

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    Cheers P! Yes i read that page earlier this morning - it doesnt give details on doing it with flap open/closed. in my mind youre trying to stop the thing staying closed at low rpm - if you take the pipe off, and its already closed, will it therefore not open? Does make sense?

    Ill be having a look later so will do some testing ;)
     
  8. chrisrepsol

    chrisrepsol New Member

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    just take the whole flap out and block the vacuum pipe up not with a screw its only 4 noise control. also on mine because the exhaust butterfly was removed the flapper used to flap like shit at a certain revs which was very annoying to say the least
     
  9. DarrylCBR

    DarrylCBR New Member

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    Thanks Chris - you make it all sound simple bud but ive not had the panels off yet so dont know what exactly is needed to take the whole flap out. Ill get stuck in this weekend if it warms up a bit.
     
  10. chrisrepsol

    chrisrepsol New Member

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    its a bit fidley i think from memeory u remove both farings both sides and lower the rad down u dont need to remove the coolant pipes then there is 2 torx screws going upwards then it slides out. gives u good pratice for spark plug changes which is a nightmare of a job !!!!
     
  11. DarrylCBR

    DarrylCBR New Member

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    Cheers C!!

    Ill have a look-see this weekend chap ;)
     
  12. hump333

    hump333 Member

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    You dont need to remove any coolent pipes! just the infills and side fairings after that u need Phillips screw driver & 8mm socket should take 15 mins to remove check my bits that's what u need out! [​IMG]
     
    #32 hump333, Mar 16, 2013
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2013
  13. DarrylCBR

    DarrylCBR New Member

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    Cheers Hump. I'm looking forward to removing this - my first job on the bike!!
     

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