Evening everyone , how tight should my chain be? Also can anyone recomend anywhere in Milton Keynes for a service , went to one place and the guy was obsessed by the Scott oiler or something and insisted I get one fitted , I only want a bloody service Cheers
sat off the bike you should be able to move the chain up & down 1" either way. or for quick reference, be able to poke a 6mm screwdriver between the chain and rear sprocket, at the lowest point
MAYBE IF YOUVE GOT BLACK WHEELS - BUT NOT WHITE / GOLD / ORANGE. and defo not the 12-13 12 spokes!! youd spend more time cleaning it! i prefer dry ptfe / wax meself. ive used scottoilers before like and yeh if youre running an old hack as a commuter theyre great, but not for your sunday best imo
Plus 1 on the Scott oiler. My mate's got one on his Blade. Bloody shit machine. Wurth dry lube by preference.
I would recommend the garage I use for my service but I'm about 30miles from MK fella ps always check chain while sat on bike unless you fancy a engine out repair from it being too tight, my mate learnt that lesson the hard way with his zx6r
Wikid , cheers guys I'm going for dry ptfe and the Wiesel at the garage had a z thou commuter that was a nail that's probably why he recommended Scott oiler Thanks for the advice and hope to see you guys at some point soon for some fun , Currently blasting up the m1 to see family today and a ride out with my brother ;-) Back later
Regular cleaning, of the chain, then lube. unless you doing mega miles a week no need for a scott oiler. did 2k in a week touring and never needed to lube it. just checked once of twice and has said 1" of movement up or down will be more than enough. bound to be vids on youtube you can find that will show you how much you need
ScotOiler works nicely IMHO. Never heard of anyone checking their chain tension whilst on the bike. How would you rotate the wheel to check tension along the length of the chain? If you're really stuck, here's a generic guide... Maintaining and Adjusting the Chain on Your Motorcycle—The Complete Idiot’s Quick Guide
The Honda dealer did it that way and my local garage that also run a small race team. They said it was advisable to always sit on the bike to check the tension of the chain under standard load conditions. My friend wore the main bearing by adjusting the tension when off the bike and it caused that so kinda makes sense to me...
2k touring and not having to lube a chain, you sure mate? Thought most applications of lube lasted circa 300 miles, maybe 500 depending on conditions? I've personally never seen lube last that long, btw remember the dry stuff attracts grit which ain't good for metal unless cleaned regularly. Not defending Scott oilers as I wouldn't personally put one on the RRA, but then I do have one on the 929 and swear by it. Ride 200 miles or more in a day, every day, get home late and rather than say hi to the wife and lad I dick around with a bike chain..... Really think it depends on how you use the bike.
I agree, the scot oiler is great if you commute daily in all weather, as I used to. The chain seemed to last so much longer, but the oiler did produce a lot of mess around the front sprocket and the rear wheel. Nowadays as a fair weather rider I use the wurth dry lube and it seems to work well. Not sure about the mileage between applications but I tend to give the chain a squirt every 200 miles or so. That said I toured France on a blackbird a couple of years ago and did about 2500 miles in two weeks without lubing the chain whilst i was there and it didn't seem to cause any issues ??
Always used a scottoiler on my bikes. My blade has had 1 on it for the last 3 years and I have the same chain and sprockets on it since buying the scottoiler. Only adjustment I've had to make to the chain apart from first 200 miles is when I've taken the wheel off for whatever reason. I find the dry lube a pain in the cock to get off of the bike, where as with the scottoiler it's just a wipe with a cloth, when cleaning the bike.
i had the vac scottoiler on my firestorm and it was great once adjusted proper - you only need one drop of oil every 4 mile or so... til one day i was coming through lancaster town and i got a whiff of burning pulled in at some lights and was engulfed in a stinking cloud of white smoke - i bailed off the bike expecting the worst (as i've already had 2 bikes spontaneously combust on me!) only to find the rubber filler had come off and it had shot it's wad all over my rear header. thank fk it didnt go on the tyre! these days i keep a small aerosol ptfe under the seat rather than carry a tub of oil!
That does make sense, maybe more applicable to a race bike or brand new bike where you know the chain is in perfect condition. When it's been used though, you'd need to make sure you check at it's tightest spot and leave less play than 1 inch too I suppose.
I do highish miles on my Blade. Have used Scott Oilers previously but apart from being messy they can give a false sense of security. If they do not work for a few days (for whatever reason) the oil is thin enough to be flung off leaving your chain dry.’ Spray on’ forces you to check every few days. I have a light tech adjuster now which makes adjustment so easy. No need to check alignment (checked a few times and it’s always spot on!) I put on paddocks loading the rear suspension, find the tightest spot and adjust to 30mm. 1 click on the adjuster on both sides takes a few mill of slack easy peasy!. (BTW put a Tsubaki chain 5k miles ago and there are no tight spots(yet), still consistent slack all the way) For what it’s Wurth (see what I did there) I use Motul Road lube once a week with a cursory check mid week. Zero fling, economical and on application it just seeps into the chain where it’s needed with no overspray
