Hi, I had a PC3 fitted to my RR6 today and a dyno run to tune the map to suit the bike, scary listening to the bike revving hard but it does sound nice Anyway the results are... Drum roll please! A bit crap... ? BHP up to 150.43 from 146.34 Torque up to 77.58 from 74.76 The exhaust looks standard with a Beowulf end can, though that's a little loud for my tastes (I like to travel incognito ) I need to check the front sprocket is standard as I had the odd thought that the previous owner might have changed it and the dyno measurement might be affected by that... I have a couple of Honda cans and have started to modify one by removing the exhaust servo actuator thing and that'll look standard and be a bit easier on the breathing I think... Thoughts? The Beowulf is a bit noisy for me. So, questions... What are we looking at as far as crank BHP? Add 20%? What is the standard rear wheel BHP for an RR6? Riding the bike, it feels more eager, quicker on the roll on and right through the range is quieter and smoother (fueling was lean and lumpy through the range.) I need to run a few tanks of fuel through it to see what the economy is like, thouugh thats not really a priority - I tend to use MPG estimates as a sign of a well running happy engine... Thanks in advance guys
It's the AFR that matters, the dyno is only a tool to know in what direction to go, numbers depend on correction factor used make of dyno atmospherics etc etc etc. Sounds like real world numbers tbh, happy dyno would be plus 10 on those numbers.
Doh... Air/Fuel Ratio... Looking at the graph it was between 13 an 14 in a wiggly line lumpy up to 6k then linearising. After mapping itds pretty linear at 13 right throgh the range. Not sure what the scale is on that... no axis labels. But, it runs better Much better
Thats the answer mate... best AFR around 13:2.1 I.e parts air to fuel ratio. Result is smooth power accross the rev range. Best AFR does not always give best power but that's the juggling act the dyno opp has to deal with, adding and subtracting fuel to give a good AFR and good power curve. Numbers are irrelevant the chart is, well they are relevant if you have money on a bet... Smooth bikes are always faster than peaky one..
as long as you can notice the improvement thats the main thing, i had my rrw dynoed and only made 115 which after some nice mods i was disappointed with but operator told me there dyno was a realistic one unlike many others. As long as it rides nice and feels quick thats the main thing, use a dyno to just check afr ignore power figures they dont mean shit tbh.. do gearing changes effect the dyno output anyone?
Yes as power P is not measured directly its calculated from torque T and velocity V (wheel speed) Its just Physics.. more info here:- Dynamometer - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia The dyno also uses standards in which to show power I.e correction factors so we have a good overall number to compare power from one location to another however the standards read different numbers so factor used needs to be know. Quick discription:- Equations: Dyno Correction Factor and Relative Horsepower
Its a trade off but T torque is a factor and the math or final results would be reflected in the answer. What I mean is a low power high geared motor will make low power readings so can't be cheated. Other factors do effect dyno are chain tension and tyre pressure also is the dyno in good shape or is the drum worn etc etc.. all these things are what's awesome in Honda torqueductor seen in MGP which looks for small variation in flex of the output shaft detecting these small magnetic fluctuations they can accurately calculate actual output power on the bike so the ECU can balance throttle inputs to output power and traction etc. Now that's smart!
El Marco, I have an RR6 and as stock it showed 151 Bhp and 76 Torque on a reliable dyno with a good tuner. The tuner said 150 was about average for the model in his experience. As has been said, dyno readings mean very little as there are so many variants and differences between dynos. A guy with a stock RR7 told me last week he got 186 bhp, that either had to be some badly out dyno or more likely a huge dollop of bull. When I had the full system fitted, PCV5, air box mods etc done on the same day my bhp went to 168 and torque to 82.5. Thus a good measure of the improvement, with a much smoother curve.
Thanks for the feedback guys... The tester said i wouldn't get it much better than that and I don't want to throw ££££s at it... The bike feels much better and keener and I see what Arthurbikemad means about AFR now, the graph is pretty sorted over the rev range. As I have a spare exhaust I don't mind donating it to an experiment or two... I'll see how it rides for a bit and get used to it so I have a datum to conpare to... If it feels better I'll get a dyno run done to see how it compares, if not I'll go back to how it is now... All good fun eh? Cheers, Mark
I didn't watch it being done... I stayed in the shop for a squeak round in my boots I'm intrigued as to why...?
Tbh there are a couple of reasons to remove the pannel and/or tank cover, one to connect the RPM pickup and two to clip off/block the pulsed air intake, if the pulsed air (fresh air, sas, pair, fresh air ***) is not blocked the dyno reads the air and thinks the bike is leaner than it actually is but dyno operators know what they are doing. *** adds fresh air into the exhaust system to help burn off part burn fuel to reduce emissions, note the air enters the system AFTER the combustion stage and does not effect power, some talk of engine braking now also as talked about by Jamie W on BSB as fresh air is added to help control engine braking this is NOT the same system! Some claim they see more power of effects of disabling the fresh air but not true as like I say air enters the exhaust just after the exhaust valve after the combustion stage thus does not and can not effect power! What can have an effect is disabling the fresh air and running stock lambda sensor as the ECU now sees it as rich as the system takes into account the stock setup, if you want to run Autotune then it needs to be permanently disabled.
I had it done at jordans in Leeds. I asked around and they seem to have a good reputation for Dyno work, I can't comment on anything else they do... I think the clothes were off as they'd fitted my PC3 and O2 sensor defeat (or whatever they are) at the same time... The have a Dynojet 250 machine there. I took the bike out for a bit of a run today and it is certainly much quicker than it was, much smoother across the rev range too. On my first Blade, and RRW, I felt a shove like I was being pushed along during hard acceleration. I never felt that same shove with the RR5 I traded it in for, but now on this RR6 I feel it again... I must admit I love the chassis on this too, but I guess everyone on here knows why we like our 'blades eh? To be honest I'm not hung up on getting the maximum bhp out of it, just having a bike that is fueling properly and is fun to ride... getting back on a blade after spending most of the year on the Blackbird feels a bit odd, it feels tiny and very different in corners, but, very very good Thanks for all your replies so far... I'm learning quite a bit! Oh and the boots are TCX Race 2's. Great comfy boots, just noisy. I've tried silicone zip stuff on the moving bits to ty to quieten them. So far so good
I've thought about having a dyno run done since fitting a new can last week, and Jordan's is my local shop as well marco, how much did they want for the session?
