I have a set of replacement rearsets on my 12 blade. I'm having issues with the ABS light coming on (and last night flashing) which I have worked out is being caused by the rear brake lever not returning back to where it should. Note - I didn't have any issues with the ABS prior to fitting these and this morning I found I could get the light to turn off by lifting the rear lever with my foot back to where it should be. So my question is this. For those of you who have fitted replacement rearsets, what did you do about fitting a spring to allow the rear brake lever to return to its normal position? Thanks Derick
The spring you speak of Derick is to return the brake light micro-switch, not the brake lever itself. The lever returns to its rest position without the aid of a spring. I assume the rearsets you have fitted make use of the original micro-switch? It may help you can post a photo. Some rearsets do away with the spring return micro-switch & use a pressure switch instead.
That's interesting, my front lever would not return and thus not activate the microswitch, (replaced the MC in the end) but this didn’t kick-off any warning lights. What’s I’d try to get the DTC to confirm the issue. http://1000rr.co.uk/maintenance/16321.htm#post255809 Maybe your pedal is actually applying pressure on the system, an error will certainly be generated if pressure is applied over a certain amount of time whilst moving.
They are diamond rearsets which don't retain the original microswitch. I have a banjo switch in place instead. Slick, I think you are right. The lever isn't returning so it's keeping pressure on the system and tripping a fault. I'll have a look and see if I can get a spring to fit.
So, you have installed a pressure switch (banjo switch) & wired it in accordingly? Did you bleed the rear normal lines & valve/power units afterwards? Have you adjusted the lever height at the master cylinder & is the rod entering the master cylinder going in true (straight)? Don't see how you can have a problem with the spring inside the M/C really.
Hi Swiss, Yes I installed the banjo bolt , wired it and bled the rear brake. I haven't bled the valve/power unit however, so that is worth checking too. The lever height when at normal rest is OK. I would assume (read not checked ) that the rod would be true as its using the same fixing points as the OEM ones. There was a spring on the OEM rear brake (Item 7 on this ) which I now don't have.
Ah, I see the spring you mean now. All I can tell you is when I fitted my R & G rearsets, the peddle return spring wasn't used either & hasn't lead to any problems. After fitting the pressure switch, I ended up with quite a bit of air in the rear system & had to bleed the normal line, valve unit & power unit to get rid of it.
hi derick, i replaced my rear set on my abs blade ,make was metaltech. first time i tested them i had abs light come on,sorted it by adjusting bottom of master cylinder so pedal was lower at toe end.also these rearsets used the standard return spring on them.might be worth putting a spring on if can. hope this helps if not sorted yet.BRI
Well I got the root cause of the sticking rear brake lever. Bike was in for a service today and the mech told me that the washer was the same size as the bearing and was fouling it and making it stick. Rear brake use is much improvedwith the use of a bigger washer. Top job all round!
