I'm confused by this thread... It's been a long day. With a tuned engine with the standard cooling system it's going to run hotter. Adding a lower temp switching thermo will do nothing as the coolant will run hotter not cooler so thermo will allway be open, it's never going to be shut while running, even the 80 degree thermo would never close let alone the 60.. Don't get the reason for one..
I usually take my thermostat out, as it saves me a few 100 grams that I don't have to lose myself less weight = faster laptimes
That's good to hear mate when it's finished it will be a similar spec to this. It's just a little project I'm working on and I know it's ambitious and the bitchy queens on here will have their comments to make but I'm aiming for 200bhp
Exact same point I was trying to make. However, the adjustable fan switch in the OP made me think. What happens now on my bike is that the fan comes on at 105 C, but its effect has a certain lag, so temp stops rising at 107-108 C. What the fan can then achieve is keep it there. If I could have the fan come in at 98 C, then maybe I could keep the temp at 100 C. Or maybe I just shouldn't bother. Idling or tooting at 108 C should not be such a big problem. Now the Fireblade is street-only. When I was riding it on track (demanding, stop-n-go style F1 track "Hungaroring"), it went up to 105 C on track with ambient temp of 36 C in summer. Nailing it as much as possible at 105 C was probably unhealthy. Idling in the traffic is nothing compared to that.
Exact same point I was trying to make. However, the adjustable fan switch in the OP made me think. What happens now on my bike is that the fan comes on at 105 C, but its effect has a certain lag, so temp stops rising at 107-108 C. What the fan can then achieve is keep it there. If I could have the fan come in at 98 C, then maybe I could keep the temp at 100 C. Or maybe I just shouldn't bother. Idling or tooting at 108 C should not be such a big problem. Now the Fireblade is street-only. When I was riding it on track (demanding, stop-n-go style F1 track "Hungaroring"), it went up to 105 C on track with ambient temp of 36 C in summer. Nailing it as much as possible at 105 C was probably unhealthy. Idling in the traffic is nothing compared to that.
I had 110C at magny cours on a 36C day.. Not ideal but doable as I have a manual fan switch (hrc ecu doesn't automatically activate the fans). You loose some HP though. According to a Dutch guy who has a 'tenkate' blade,, installing the (expensive) oil cooler is the best option (for racers) and keeps the temp down to 80-85C on a superhot day. Best operating temp is btw around this temperature, 62C is way too low. On a hot day, my bike is already at 80C when I leave pitlane so I don't see the point of that 62C hrc stat
That's why I'm asking so I need to upgrade the radiator? Or anything else. If I'm running with no thermostat won't there be lots of fluctuation in temp? What is the ideal temp to aim to keep the engine at?
What I think you need to do is ask the tuner you will go to to upgrade your engine we can all share our experiences but few here (I assume) are experts. Are you going to race with the bike? If no, I believe cooling should stay as-is. The oil cooler for example will be installed where the fans are located so: oil cooler, no fans. Also, on colder days, you might need to tape some of the radiator off to keep heat in the engine (yeah, opposite problem and not something for road usage). Just my 2cents! Hth
I jump from 157 rwHp with just a slip on and PC5 to 170 after and an oil bruner engine. I imagine around 180 rwhp with my new engine upgrade and no oil consumption. i break in and dyno it last month.
not sure who your aiming your "bitchy queen" comments at,but 200 bhp is quite doable out of a blade,as long as your willing to chuck at it some serious money at it,and electronics of course. why not give a list of what your mods are,or are planning to do. i was close with my 07 at 193bhp,but that was a very special engine,with ok electrics.
great read Arthur, I was right... For a change Better get the thermostat back in Skippy when shes apart again!
1. I have Removed the small circuit, but still have the Thermostat to regulate the water flow 2. the Oil cooler Is connected like hrc ( on stock , the oilcooler puts its Hot water back to the cold side of the Radiator / on hrc it connects to the hot side of the Radiator )
haven't taken the thermostat out of the blade yet LC.... might have a read, but have riden the last 4 years without one and never had a problem, even doing 8hrs endurance races
Ideal temp is around 80-85°C, the higher you go the more bhp you lose and then it's just a waste of tuning the bike.
It does say no cooling in pits. So in my lil brain. It would warm up nearly as quick. No air on rad and race bikes tend not to bother with fans
If you will make a street engine like me, buy a set of samco hoses and keep out the black paint of the oem cooler, paint make it heat more quicker.
normally there are two temperature specs for thermostats: open & fully open. The operation is not a switch but a gradual opening/ closing proces to regulate the engine temperature. The fully open temp is probably more helpful to you for making comparison Assuming the fully open flow of both stats is the same, the 62c stat makes the engine take longer to reach optimal operating temp with potential side effects on fueling, consumption and performance IF you take it out completely then you may never reach the operating temperature unless your engine mod makes the engine run a lot hotter
