Recently my Sons 05 Blade was discharging battery but could go for weeks ok then fail again. Yesterday he was riding home and the Temp light came on temp 106 and HESD lite came on when he stopped. When he tried to restart it was dead and started on a push. When we checked Battery voltage it was 11.2 v We checked voltage from stator at regulator each output was 37vand increased with revs When plugged back into Reg output voltage from reg at Batt was 11.6v Disconnected output connector from Reg, and checked voltage output and it was 12.6 increasing with revs,we noticed the green male connector was burnt looking we cleaned it up and put WD40 on it reconnnected and voltage was still 11.6 at Battery. Checked Out put from reg with connector disconnected it was still 12.6v inc with revs.Reconnected and checked voltage on reg side of connector and the voltage was 11.5v. In a nutshell the Voltage from reg when disconnected from main loom is Ok but when reconnected it drops to 11.5.We bypassed the loom connector with wires to Reg connector(Isolating) the burnt connector but volts were still 11.6. Any Ideas Guys
Could still be regulator or stator, when revving it should be about 13.7-14.3 volts when the bike is turned off the battery should be about 12.7 or slightly higher any less and possible battery fault Others will correct me if I'm wrong
As I said in The thread the output from reg measured at the red+Grn wires wiith connecter off is 12/13v increasing with revs then when all is reconnected the output drops to 11.6 measured by meter connected to batt side of 2 wire connecter with engine running and all connections made
Thanks for all replies. I have replaced the Stator and Regulator and everything fine now (Fingers crossed it lasts)
Have you also replaced the stator flywheel? It's an uprated OEM part. If you haven't then your stator will burn up again in a few thousand miles.
oh well thats ok then,let someone else deal with the problem very very common on the blades,in fact i cant beleive people aren't saying steer clear of them as they will all fail eventually.......
Thanks to all who replied with suggestions The Stator and Reg have solved the problems The Blade is now running Fine
We are still in Trouble with the charging. Son Went for a run today and he broke down. He stopped bike and when he went to Start it would not Start He got it going with a push but it was erratic and all the clocks were dead. He eventually got it started and all clocks came to life and he got home the 4mls home. At home he checked the Battery Voltage it was 11v. We checked out put from new Stator and it was only 12 to 14vAC Yet when all connected up and the bike running putting a meter across Batt terminals it showed battery Voltage increasing with revs 13.5v at 5K. Putting a Lidls Battery tester across Batt terminals it showed low Volts at idle but reving enging the Light indicating Charging came on at 2K rpm. I cannoy understand Stator voltages any suggestions, We have Battery on charge and will do more checks later and I will keep posted
It sounds like either you are not testing things properly or misreading the results. You should get more that 12-14 Vac from the stator, not sure why you replaced both the stator and RR rather than correctly diagnose the problem. Using the battery charger on the bike whilst the engine is running is not a good idea. The following is copied from another site, but the basic principles are the same. Maybe you could have some local help with the tests? Following several recent posts which relate to bikes not starting/ charging I have decided to put together this troubleshooter in order to help those of us having electrical difficulties with their bikes. Whilst it does not go into every detail, it will cover the basics of “what to do” and “how to do it”. Basically the charging system consists of 3 main components. Alternator: Which is a generator powered by the engines rotation. It produces AC voltage by means of magnets in a flywheel and a stator mounted on the casing. Regulator/ Rectifier: Regulates the voltage so that it stays within a specific range. Converts AC current to DC current. Battery: This stores the regulated DC current. Component location. Stator: Behind the left hand casing on the engine Reg/Rec: Behind the right hand side panel on a plate between the subframe rails or mounted on them. Battery: Underneath the rider’s seat. Bike died on you and lights won’t work, it won’t start or start back up after being used or a dead battery? If you are experiencing some of those problems then it is possible that part of your charging system has failed, or more specifically the Reg/Rec had failed at some point. Honda is well known for those probs. Before starting any of the tests ensure that the battery is fully charged (and reading between 12.8v and 13.2v across the terminals) and that all connectors are clean and tight. The only tools you need are those in your toolkit and a multimeter. If you have found the battery discharged overnight there are two possible causes. A voltage leak (something still drawing a current) or a knackered battery (sulphated or damaged cell) LEAK TEST Make sure the ignition is switched off and disconnect the earth/ negative (-) lead from the battery. Connect the multimeter + probe to the earth lead and the – probe to the battery terminal. Make sure the meter is reading amps. With the ignition off there should be no (0) reading unless you have an alarm fitted. The only non switched circuits are the cooling fan and an alarm. The max specified current leakage for carbed bikes is 1.2mA max. For FS Injected its 2.0mA max. If there is a leakage which exceeds the specified limits. A short circuit or an accessory on is most likely. The best way to locate the short is to start disconnecting connectors one by one until the culprit is found. BATTERY TEST If the leak test is within it specified limits and your battery is still going flat then the battery or a cell in it is suspect. The only way to do this is to put it on a discharge tester usually only found at your local dealer or bike shop. DO NOT charge the battery up before taking it to be tested. CHARGING TEST Before starting this test warm the engine up to operating temp. There are several ways of obtaining a reading when checking the charging I will use the simplest one. Connect the meter and have it set to read volts. Start up the engine and increase the revs to 5,000rpm gradually. Switch on the lights and put Hi beam on. You should obtain a reading between 13.0v – 15.5v @5,000rpm. If your reading is outwith the above and your battery is fine and all connectors are clean and tight the most likely culprit is the Reg/Rec. REGULATOR/RECTIFIER Before disconnecting the plug on the Reg/Rec check that the Green wire coming out of the harness is attached firmly to the plate with an eyelet connector and isn’t corroded. One of the most “common” causes of charging system failure is this eyelet coming adrift. (This only applies to carbed bikes.) Disconnect the plug and using the meter check the following terminals. Terminals Reading check Red/White (+) and earth(frame-) Battery voltage Batt charge Green and earth Continuity Earth connection Yellow and Yellow 0.1-1.0 Ohms Charging coil line Red/white and Green Battery voltage Yellow and Green There should be NO continuity. If these check out then the wiring is fine. REG/REC TESTING Remove the unit from the bike. The only way to test is to check the resistance between the terminals of the unit (carbed bikes only). (+) Red/ Yellow Yellow Yellow Green (-) White 1 2 3 Red/White ------ INF INF INF INF Yellow 1 0.5-10 ------ 30-500 30-500 10-200 Yellow 2 0.5-10 30-500 ------ 30-500 10-200 Yellow 3 0.5-10 30-500 30-500 ------ 10-200 Green 1-20 0.5-10 0.5-10 0.5-10 -------- The readings are K Ohms. If any of the readings are outwith the values then replace the REG/REC. The final test is that of the Charging Coil or Stator. This has already been done when checking the REG/REC connector. On carbed bikes the connector is in front of the battery below the fuel tank on the others it is behind the battery above the shock mount. I can see no reason to check this connection other than to rule out a possible short in the wiring harness from this point to the stator/damaged stator, or to eliminate a short in the wiring from the plug to the Reg plug. The reading should be 0.1-1.0 Ohms between the yellow to yellow terminals. You should also check each yellow to earth for continuity. There should be NO continuity. I hope you find this troubleshooting guide helpful it is made up from my many years working on bikes and from the various manuals that are in print. Lastly if you are still not sure seek qualified help. Good luck.
Thanks Iain for useful info We were not runing eng with Charger attached, We put on new Stator and we were still not Charging Fitted Reg and at that time it was good. Will carry on with investigation and post resilts, Thanks again for info My Son was informed That the Rotor should have been replaced on Extended Warranty and that there should be a center punch mark under the first letter of Vin. There is no Mark even though Son left bike in and was assured that the Stator only had been replaced even though the original Honda service Bulletin specifies Stator and Rotor replacement. Had anyone any similar experience.We have written to Customer Services Manager Honda Ireland attaching copy of Service Bulletin to see if he can help. A friend in the Legal profession says that if the Punch mark is missing then you can assume that Bulletin not carried out.
Can someone please help me on how to use a multimeter as I would like to test things myself and I'm not sure what to put it on to do these checks using the Omega symbol, ie 200, 2k, 20k, 200k, 20m
