I'm looking at getting a chain tool for breaking and riveting Never done it myself before so a bit clueless on what I'm looking for Are cheap ones cheap for a reason?
Got one of the cheaper tools myself, its a 30 squid DID copy, changed more than 10 chains thus far without any failures (touchwood!!!) but I am meticulous checking my work afterwards. But when someone asks me to change their chain I insist on a DID chain as the rivet is a hollow type and a piece of cake to correctly flange the rivet. Cheapos do have limitations, the metal is likely to be inferior to the more expensive types, you will need to grind the rivets before pressing them out otherwise you risk damageing the tool - my preference to just to grind the old chain off. Also when flanging the rivet the pin is likely to be damaged so you will only be able to use it on one or two chains. Remember fitting a chain is 3 steps (plus the associated adjustments) removal of the old chain - i.e. breaking/pressing out a rivet pressing the plate flanging the rivet not all tools can do all three Also you will need to buy the appropriate tool for a particular chain. DID use hollow rivets so cheaper tools can be used, Chains that use solid rivets such as Tsubaki need heavy duty tools ie impact rivetters such as the whale tool, these come which a price. You will also need some big wrenches for the tool, probably a long breaker bar to remove the front sprocket, calipers to check the plate distance and rivet flange, the cost rack up. Your local garage will probscharge and hour (60 squids) to fit any set of chain and sprockets.
X2 above. Have only done the one before moon but as slick mentioned taking your time is crucial, I also fitted DID chain and did'nt find any problems, peening the links evenly is most important aswell as not crushing the o rings and that's we're the taking your time comes in. You're welcome to borrow my chain tool bud if you have a go. Pm me if you do.
Like I said above you will need a set of vernier calipers, measuring the plate distance and flange/peen is crucial. Also wear eye protection just in case.
I don't have a DID chain though, I have an RK 520 GXW, will it be different? I'm starting to think for piece of mind I should just let a garage do it
You don't need much peening of the rivet link pins to make sure that it stays together. Look how difficult it is to actually get the sideplate over the pins? Just make sure there is some peening. I usually measure the pin diameter before and after and always finish off by using two hammers.
Hollow link chains are easiest to peen over like the did chains, solid rivets just need a hard cup tool to peen rivet over! Once you get the backing plate on your 75% there, then peen which ever rivet you have! Most chain tools are for hollow rivets
depends on that joining link. If the rivets are solid you will not be able to use the cheaper tools as Look at the joining link, if the rivets are hollow it's easy. Solid ones are doable but either require more expensive tools or some very accurate peening. When I did my tsubaki (it had a solid rivet) I had a sledge hammer behind the link and a ball pein hammer to peen the rivet. Simple but very easy to miss and hit the plates. TBH you are more likely to over peen and end up with a tight link or cracked rivet. If you like buy some spare links and have a practice, it will give you confidence when you do the real thing.
So went to fit my Renthal 520 chain last night and noticed it has solid rivets and not the hollow ones. So too peen the rivets is it just a case of using a hammer and punch to "carefully" flatten the ends out a bit or is it something else? I tried having a look at the Renthal web site but their so called fitting video was shockingly poor.
I've bought two cheapies now and yes they were both sh*t. Last chain I changed I had to use a combination of the two to get the job done and now I'm thinking of getting one of these. It's also cheap so no doubt I'm about to have 3 sh*t chain tools [video]
Lol - I bought a similar kit before I received my chain - the Renthal one uses a completely different system!!!!
Tried looking up "whale tool" but this appears to be a brand rather than a product - can anyone point me in the right direction of the correct tool for the solid rivet type?
I thought that they only did two? The expensive one (about £130) is a breaker and a riveter, the cheaper one (£70-£80) is a riveter only.
I'll add that I used a DID copy tool with a DID chain myself, it was fine. Some copies do seem to be made to low tolerances, though. I already had an angle grinder, so didn't test the tool's splitting capabilities.
Get a garage to do it = £20 Not the point I realise, but this is what I did when I considered how frequently I will be changing chains (not often). And don't get me wrong - normally if I can do it myself I would (especially if it means getting new shiny tools for the job!), but FWR did mine in about 15 minutes, ride in ride out, so can't really complain
