2010 ABS model blade

Discussion in 'General 1000RR Discussion' started by Stuzza11, May 13, 2015.

  1. Stuzza11

    Stuzza11 New Member

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    hi guys

    Wander if anyone can help, I read a lengthy post on this forum about 2010 fireblades having brake issues with ABS model bikes is this the case as I have just bought one not too long ago and I am a little concerned as could be fatal if it happens if anyone could shed light let me know stu
     
  2. Lozzy

    Lozzy God Like

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    Stu, I've got the 11 abs & had no probs at all...however, quite a few folks have & seems to be luck of the draw with them!
     
  3. madmac

    madmac Well-Known Member

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    Mine is currently "acting up". But it only does it intermittently and as long as you know how to react (quickly release and re-apply the lever once) - it's not too bad. Once it's triggered the ABS fault light, braking is fine again (at least that's how it is on mine). Mine should be going in for a ABS bleed within the next few weeks, so I'm hoping that cures it for a while at least.
     
  4. binned_it

    binned_it Active Member

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    Mine is fine. I can replicate the two main problems on any ABS blade, I don't think it's bad luck, they all have it.
    But once you know about it, you change habits a bit.

    Basically, if you lightly touch the brakes a lot, the abs gets confused and the lever position changes. The result is the lever comes almost to the bars before the brakes work. It's dangerous if you two finger brake, because you trap your fingers and can't brake hard. And it's disconcerting.

    So now I only touch the brakes if I need to slow down, and I have all fingers on the lever. No problems at all. Slight change in habits.
    Plus bleeding brakes occasionally.

    Some go for the full bleed proceedure (pain in the arse), but I find that a vacuum bleed from the caliper is fine.

    The second issue is inconvenient rather than dangerous. You can activate abs by confusing the sensors, and it remains on after the bike is off. Battery runs flat in 5 mins And you can't even bumpstart. I know now to turn the bike off before wheeling in to tight spots, and I listen for the high pitched whine that tells me abs is on, so not a problem for me anymore.

    Some people think their bike is ok, because the riding they do doesn't show up the issues. I think they all have the problem though, because the system is the same for all 2010 to 2014 bikes, and maybe newer ones too.

    I have adjusted a tiny bit, and it's worth it, because I like the abs.
    No doubt some will disagree with me.
     
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  5. madmac

    madmac Well-Known Member

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    I believe the ABS battery drain issue was cured with an ABS/ECU update, and later bikes don't have that issue any more. Could be wrong tho...
     
  6. Kentblade

    Kentblade God Like

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    Spot on, the earlier ABS ECUs did not have enough RAM to upgrade so it was a complete swap, on my 2010 Honda funded that out of goodwill, from memory the issue was cured 2012 onwards....but don't quote me on that
     
  7. ShinySideUp

    ShinySideUp Elite Member

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    Battery drain issue was addressed with ecu update to 2011 bikes think it was Rev 38600MFLD04 (fitted to late 2011 onwards models) on ecu part number. Rev 38600MFLD02 and Rev 38600MFLD03 had power drain issues.

    As for the other issues of lever coming back to the bar that's still present in cbr600's and cbr1000's c-abs models from 2010-2015!
     
    #7 ShinySideUp, May 14, 2015
    Last edited: May 14, 2015
  8. Stuzza11

    Stuzza11 New Member

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    My bike is the 2010 A model seems ok but kiss a worry really
     
  9. Kentblade

    Kentblade God Like

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    Unless your bike has had a replacement ABS ECU to the later fixed version, then just make sure you turn the ignition off before you roll it backwards and forwards when parking in a gap like a row of bikes where you are manoeuvring the bike and turning the bars, the ABS sensors get confused with the tyre movements and when you switch off the ignition, the ABS ECU circuitry remains active and live and in 15 mins your battery is flatter than a pancake. Also you can listen when you have powered off to see if the motors are still humming, if so , switch back on and off again.

    You could always bung Mr Honda £1200 for a new one if you are concerned its a plug and play change.
    You are probably realising that you have unwittlinly signed up for Hondas R&D testing department once you enter into Blade ownership.
     
  10. travellingkiwi

    travellingkiwi Active Member

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    My 2012 ('13 plate) just had another brake bleed this week... That follows a complete replacement of the ABS pump mid last year. fscking thing keeps playing up...

    Last time was no brakes when trying to slow slightly for a twat changing lanes in front, followed suddenly by a sudden complete lockup of the wheels and a stoppie on the A4...

    H
     

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