Hi does the barel ajduster on the brake lever have a sping behind it. I have had quite abit of travel in the lever for a while now. I have spent many hours rebuilding the calipers and bleeding the system multiple times in defferent ways lol. I just noticed that i can move the barrel adjuster very easily backwards and forwards. thx
It's just a stepped cog type thing, I don't think there is a spring in there. Even if there was I don't think that would have any effect on your brake travel. My oem was the same, I swapped to a Brembo and it way better. When you bleed are there air bubbles coming out? Have you got braided hoses? Have you tried zip tying the lever over night? Is it ABS? Decent brake fluid?
It's non abs I have replaced all the deals in the calipers I have zip ties my lever over night 3 times, manually bled the brakes pressure bled them about 5 times since april. Tapped the calipers and mc incase of trapped air. I don't have braided lines but have checked the all even under pressure. Also bled the brakes by cracking the banjo alittle. Replace the pads with sbs sintered ( a lot better than what was in before) but the lever has prob half of its total travel before u feel the brakes then it's quite solid. The brakes e slightly progressive but the free play in the lever is alot
Also I have had a squeeze of 5 cbr1000rr 08+ Brake levers and all better than mine with less travel but I didn't notice the adjuster till today as its been playing on my mind
Just to add I can hear feel a pop/clunk from the brakes now and again when I first apply them at the end of my street not every time I go out and it only does it once. Headstock is fine bolts r torqued up and new pads and seals.
I'm in the same position, but with braided lines and ASV levers. There appears to be more travel with the aftermarket lever then my OEM one. Done the same as you too Jasezxr..
Thx essexbladerider, if anyone has still got the oem lever fitted can u push the lever towards the front of the bike and move the adjuster back and forth 5-8mm
Sounds like you have done everything possible pal. Surely though the adjuster simply moves the lever back and forth, it should still be pressing the plunger in the MC the same amount? So I can't really see how that could be the issue.
It doesn't start pressing in the plunger in the mc untill it moves so far, so there is free play between the lever and plunger and also free play in the plunger. Will prob get a new mc Brembo or accosato but can afford untill winter. Just trying to solve this problem while it's summer and I'm using the bike for semi fast paced rides
not sure if this is the info you are after. ON my RR8, there's a spring at the end of the lever which puts a load on it and pushes it backwards against the thumb wheel adjuster. Normally the dial is tight and secure and to change the setting when you rotate, you need to apply pressure to overcome the little spring. If you push the lever forward and compress the spring, then the dial rotates very easily. I set my lever to position closest to the handle bar r
could you get a hold of a used oem lever off ebay maybe to fit and test before buying a new master cyl etc ? Just checked mine there , is definitely a return spring there which is what you compress when pushing the lever forward to adjust , whilst the lever is forward then the numbered dial does have a lot of movement in all directions but the movement stops when you release the lever to normal position. Mines initially clicks for the brake light then progressively gets a harder feeling to the lever but this is just after bleeding a few times after fitting new pads and braided lines, there is no delay or play between squeezing the lever and it acting on the piston in the master cyl. Is it possible to add a video of yours to see if its any different ?
