This is the other view of adapter, when i mention left bulb I mean left as sat on bike. On mine this adapter is what the bulb plugs into (RR6) and this is the piece that is held in place by the spring clip/retainer. My L/hand lamp is dipped on mine which is a black wire with white stripe together with a solid black which is ground (check with a meter to be sure) and high beam is a black with blue stripe with solid black ground. I am going to add the supply wire from the high beam relay, in effect doubling cable size to the dipped connection on the module so no problem feeding both bulbs simultaneously when high beam not in use, which for me is hardly ever. The ground wires doubled together into the module then onto the bulb connectors, so using all original wiring which is obviously capable of doing the job as we are not using any more power other than the dipped side feeding the full beam albeit at a reduced voltage.
Sorry this is probably my fault! I personally don't want to cut into existing cables. one reason so if i sell I can remove mod and revert back to standard and 2 beacause I'm anal From what I can work out pre 2007 have adaptors on bulb end to hold the bulb into fixings so changing a H7 into H4.. I have a 2009 and this adaptor is not present (H7 connection) connection off light The adaptors would only be needed if you like me didn't want to cut into wires. then cut wire on adaptors, wire in mod to unit from Our friend in Germany! and then plug in one end to bulb and the other to existing connection!!!!
Even more confusion Messing about with the bike today (RR7) my first job was to look at what my headlight setup was like as I've not actually done it yet and was 'very' surprised to find: I have two H7 bulbs fitted, both with the adaptor as pictured by Frosty. I was expecting an H7 in the l/h/side and a H4 in the r/h/side (as sat on bike). I was further amazed (and really f***** irritated because this whole single headlight b*****ks seems so ridiculous) that when on high beam only the l/h/side light gives high beam, the r/h/side stays on dip! Is this correct? The H7 in the l/h/side is mounted horizontally with the locating lug pointing to the right (as sat on bike), the r/h/side bulb is mounted vertically with the lug pointing straight up. There are only two wires to each connector. Is this setup normal for an RR7? Is seems iang27 has an H7 and a H4 in his bike unless I misunderstand because his solution is to cut down an H4 bulb to fit into the l/h/side H7 socket.
My left hand is the dipped and right hand is full, both light up on full beam and only dip on normal. The mod with the H4 is to use it in the full beam and bring the dip feed to the h4 dipped filament and thereby lighting both headlamps, on full you light up the extra filament in the h4 so you are feeding all 3 filaments, 2 dip and 1 full. Hope that makes sense. For £50 the module is the best alternative in my opinion.
Exactly right, when fitting the H4 it works fine but looks really dull on dip compared to the H7 dip beam bulb so in my opinion looks just as crap as having only one headlight. The dip part of an H4 must be a different voltage or something compared to an H7, either that or the light is directed the wrong way or something, god knows. Next plan is to try some H7 led cree bulbs and just run both on full beam, I don't run at night so will not affect me.
Cheers mate, yep, the module seems the obvious way to go. I assume you've got yours all set up now, looking like in the photos which looks good. Bit puzzled you saying your 'left hand' is the dipped? Is that as you sit on the bike? The dipped on mine is the right (as sat on bike). Had a ride out this af'noon, first proper ride since I got it three weeks ago, caught a few reflections in car rears several times, looks shite, just looks like a broken headlight, really p**** me off proper, especially as I've still got my 2003 R1 which has superb double headlights dipped and full.
Mine defo left dipped as sat on bike, which I would say is correct because it lights up the nearside, the wiring could go to either headlight but is also marked up left and right.
I find this whole headlight saga bloody ridiculous, who the hell thinks up these things? Yours is a RR6? Mine's a RR7, why on earth would they change the headlight configuration from left dip to right dip? I not sure it makes any more sense for it to be one or the other. I assume the reflectors on yours are different appropriate for each bulb? Womblewizard's schematic diagram shows it spot on for my RR7 inc' the horizontal/vertical orientation of each bulb. Obviously Honda realized their drastic mistake on your model and corrected it for mine Do the 'doppelicht' instructions assume the dipped is on the left then? I suppose I'd wire it up the opposite way round.
Quick answer - YES you assume right! As long as you connect red wire from module to positive dipped and blue wire from module to the high beam. My rr9 is also on the other side!!!!!! You're getting there! at least your get it right first time.
'finally, I won´t get those "hey, one of your headlamps is gone" comments from non-bikers ' I get these comments from more bikers then non-bikers...........think it is time I got this piece of kit. Thanks for the share!
Just fitted the 'Doppellicht Modul V4.0 Plug’n Play-Version H7' or the 'Double light module V4.0 Plug'n Play version H7'. Found here... http://www.jn-elektronik.de/?page_id=993 In the box you get the module with two male straight and two female right angle connectors, two grommets, two zip ties, a bullet connector and sticky base. Step 1) Cut the long wire [shown curled above]. I cut it 3/4 of the way along away from the module side so that the join done later on was not sitting at the bottom of the sagging wire. Step 2) Remove the headlight dust caps and drill one Ø5.5mm thru hole on the lowest face. Step 3) Press the grommets into the holes. Step 4) Feed the newly cut wire through the holes making sure the connectors are to the inside of the dust caps [I know this is obvious but it happens] Step 5) Rejoin the wire using the crimp-able bullet connector. I opted for a more finished solution. I got one of the wiring folk at my work to prep the wires, solder them and cover the join in a water proof heat shrink. Step 6) Attach the module to the stock wiring harness. Step 6.1) On the low beam side remove the stock right angled connector and replace with the modules low beam right angled connector in the same orientation. My stock wiring has a green and a white wire. There is a gold dot on one side of the module male connector. The white wire should connect to the gold side. On my first attempt I put the green to the gold side... ...and the lights all still functioned as stock. The module however didn't function. I ended up contacting 'Jens' for help and he sorted it right away. Cracking customer service. Step 6.2) On the high beam side remove the stock right angled connector and replace with the modules high beam right angled connector in the same orientation. My stock wiring has a green and a blue wire. There is a gold dot on one side of the module male connector. The green wire should connect to the gold side. Step 7) Carefully arrange the wires tidily inside the headlight case and place the caps back on being careful that you are not trapping any wires or putting any force on the lamps. Step 8) Enjoy the better looking twin headlight look and the complete removal of people coming up to you and saying 'here mate, yer headlights out, better get that fixed'. My Review So far this head light kit was easy to install, looks extremely well made and is properly sealed to a high standard. The unit opening where the wires go in is filled with a very thick layer or epoxy like sealant. This isn't some diy, shed made component, this is a proper product. Apart from the dust cap modification this unit is plug and play. The unit is also rated to 80°C and is design to fit inside the headlight housing. Its brilliant, the bike still looks stock. Unless you knew that there wasn't meant to be a wire joining the two caps together you would never think that it wasn't meant to be there. As for the man himself, I found him to be very genuine, helpful and upfront about his product. I'm amazed that this product is not more well known. All I can think of is that because his site is in German google filters it out. Thanks to Chrome's auto translate his website is very readable. I originally made contact with 'Jens' with the assistance of a German colleague. But luckily this man is much more educated in the languages than me and can write English very well. I have recommended this product to everybody I know and will be buying this for every bike I get that has a daft light setup. The price I payed including the delivery was worth every penny. Due to how wet Scotland is most of the time I think I will be adding a bit of liquid sealant to bolster the grommets but apart from that... its brilliant!
Here is a short video I made showing the lights. I start by showing how the lights are set to dipped. Show the lights workings then press the flash a couple of times to show it all still working.
Thanks Stuart, really helpful! The single headlight has been my only gripe with the Blade. Jens unit just turned up today with no instructions which I would have struggled with. Will print off your info to help with the install. Cheers!
I hope it goes well; remember any issues with it and im sure Jens will help you out. Try not to go any bigger than a Ø5.5 drill size for the grommet hole. If you don't have one do a Ø5 and open it out till it fits. To be perfectly honest I have five gripes with my blade, the headlight, the exhaust asethetic, the rear pegs, the rear indicators and the scaffolding holding the license plate on. Thanks to Jens, the headlight is sorted. The exhaust I can't find a replacement that I like, love the 'two wheel' flush look but I don't like the flat spot it gives you in the middle of the rev range. I have considered doing a downpipe back system from scratch but i doubt I can do better than honda. To solve the peg issue I designed some street hooks which replaced the rear pegs (so I can strap the bike down in my van easily and still mount the pegs without having to strip the bike down). The rear indicators will be sorted by an american made replacement plastic piece that has integrated indicators and the last issue has been solved by a home brew floating license plate mount. I did all that and now they've gone and changed the shape of the blades... typical lol
