Cam chain tensioner

Anyone any idea easiest way to do the cct on a 13 plate blade? Mobs just started a slight rattle so going order a manual one, just after best option for getting to it and if I need strip sides or can you get to it from the top? On my r6 it was throttle side panel off and one out one in no locking cams or anything, would this be same or do cams need locking or anything else look for? Thanks in advance

 

Mine not mobs. Bloody predictive text

 

Not sure if 2013 is any different, but on my 2011 I think I just took the side fairing, tank cover and petrol tank off.

Was a bit of a ball ache, used a little 1/4" ratchet with various length 'wobble' bar ententions to get to the bolts.

Followed the manual mostly, but can't remember the extact order I did it as I didn't have the special tensioner stopper tool. I'm sure someone with a better memory will be along shortly

 

On my r6 a small screw driver did the job, did you need to lock the cams or just remove the cct?

 

Yeah I think you can use a small screwdriver and lock it in place if you have some suitable sized lock grips you can get in the space. I've also read that some people just remove the whole unit without releasing the tension.

I didn't lock the Cams, I just alligned it at TDC to be on the safe side:

Think the main steps are:
Lift and Support Tank
Remove the tensioner sealing bolt and sealing washer
Turn the tensioner shaft fully in (clockwise) and secure it to prevent damage to the cam chain.
Remove the two bolts on the tensioner body and remove the tensioner and gasket.
Put new one in with new gasket, tighten bolts. on a new OEM one there is a little tab you then remove that releases the tensioner. Install sealing bolt with new washer.

I think someone put a link up to download a full service manual not long ago, that covered 2012 on bikes too and all the ABS stuff. I've just got one of the early ones from 08.

 

I've got manual one on its way, got a manual for direction just after tips or tricks like to find the easy way do jobs. Or if its a bastard I'd drop it in my local bike shop be done​

 

Think the hardest bit is just getting at the bolts to undo them

 

Sounds promising lol hopefully get it done Sunday morning if it arrives quick enough.

 

I fitted a manual cut version on my 2012 model after two failed units, so got fed up with standard version.
Remove fairing lift fuel tank to highest position to gain access. It’s still fiddly to do but with patience and not dropping the bolts that hold it in place is easy.
Make sure you wind the thread right to its posistion furthest away from the cam chain as this makes fitting easier.
Once bolted up use your fingers to tighten the bolt up to the cam chain, rotate the engine a couple of times to ensure it’s in its home position, you can do this by moving the bike around in first gear so saves starting at this point. The CCT have an imperial thread and you will need a 5/8 this spanner to fit the bolt as a 16mm is a shade to tight, but check first with a spanner before you fit to see.
Once finger tight use the spanner and rotate the bolt 180 degrees then start the engine, listen carefully and if it is slack when you rev it, you hear the noise on the over run and it sounds like the chain is hitting the guides then tighten a little more, but only half turns, really the engine needs to be warm then the chain is at its operating temperature. That’s it really and don’t forget to tighten the locking nut.
Mine has not needed adjusting since being fitted some 20,000 miles ago.

 

Great stuff cheers mate

 

All done and ticking gone removed tank completely, one bolt from inside other from the gap between right hand fairing and frame. couldn't get screw driver in to take the tension off so just carefully did few turns either side til it was out. New one on and hand tight, pinched up and started, ran til hot then half turn more in. Perfect gonna have valve clearance done in July along with mot then hopefully few years hassle free for me. Thanks for the advice everyone

 

Great that you could do that yourself. Whilst usually a confident person, and once having done ALL my work, I now get nervous about anything to do with pulling fairings off. Having said that, I did accomplish a rather stress-free pillion peg removal - but not without extending my vocabulary beyond English language etiquette.

BTW, be prepared to drop in the region of 400 quid for the big service.

 

Must admit I'm pretty good with spanners just don't like doing it if I'm honest. Got a good local bike shop that looks after me on price, will see how bad it's gonna be and may do it myself yet. I'm just tight when its paying for something I could do myself lol. They aren't bad on price tbh tho so ill see what they come back at, l been mates with the owners for years now so they're usually cheap as chips