I've a problem with my 2012 CBR1000RR that has been worsening over the last few months relating to starting. My bike stays on an optimate when not in use and when I come to start it the battery acts as if it's flat. I put a new battery on and it was just the same. I've had the starter motor apart and it seems ok, brushes don't appear burnt. I've checked fuses and the general wiring and I can't see anything obviously wrong. I've checked and cleaned the kill switch contacts and that seems ok. When it did start I'd taken the voltage at the battery terminals and it reads 14 point something volts when running with stable output. Bizzarely when the bike has been running and I've been out on it for a good ride it will struggle to restart, only just firing as if the battery is flat. The optimate recharges the battery quickly so I'm pretty happy the battery is ok it appears more a short. When metering the battery when pressing the starter the volts drop down to 6v, again leading me to think a short. Could it be the starter relay? I've read of people shorting them out with a spanner to bypass the relay but that sounds extreme. I've also read that a rec/reg fault could be to blame but would that prevent it starting? I've not looked at the stator yet but it must be working to give an output to the battery. I'm looking to replace the rec/reg, possibly the starter relay and stator as a 3rd option but I don't want to swap out parts needlessly, can anyone share thoughts on what might be wrong and the solution? This has slowly been getting worse until now where it won't start at all. Cheers
So would you say 14 volts on choke/fast idle is too much and this has fried the battery? My mate had a rec/reg go on his 600RR and that was putting out 19v and cooked his battery to the point where it was smoking badly. I'm going to switch out the battery from my other bike to try this. How do you check the stator is ok? So thoughts are rec/reg has fried the battery yeah....?
I can't check currently because it won't start but I'll meter it when I get it running. From memory when this problem first showed up and I put the new battery in last Summer it was still struggling to start hence why I discounted the battery, but I'll check the voltage asap.
Fit a cheapo ebay digital volt meter. You’ll know the voltage before you even start and during the rev range. This will help you diagnose the problem. Btw 14v at idle is good! More than 14.8 ish at any rev means then reg is fecked. RRs are generally reliable. The starters and stators are not
It appears the battery is fried now, even after being on the optimate there's not enough go to spin the engine. It was new in the summer when the problem first became apparent but it made no difference and it got progressively worse until now where it's dead. I'd say either the rec/reg is overcharging and cooking the battery (but 14v sempt ok) or there is a short somewhere. Even after a good ride the bike struggles to restart with a seemingly flat battery. The starter motor looks ok internally, the starter relay clicks in and out so I'm not sure what to do. First port of call will be a new rec/reg, a new battery and I'll swap out the starter relay for a used item I've got; beyond that I'm not sure.
Stu, I’d fit the new battery first and then check the charging circuit before you waste money on a reg.
Can you clarify the method for checking? Last Summer the bike started to struggle to start so I assumed a dying battery and swapped it out. I checked the voltage with a meter on the battery terminals whilst running and it was 14 ish volts which I thought was ok. If this is ok then what is next on the list to check? I might have the cover off the stator but unless there i something obvious how do you check it? Cheers
Stu, do you have the workshop manual? Section 18-8 has a bit about inspecting the charging system. Can send or something if you need it?
Hi mate, Thanks for that I'll give it a go this weekend and see what I can find. I'm loathed to fit another new battery until I have found something to blame for killing it. Cheers
Had 10 minutes looking at the bike last night. First off I measured the voltage at the battery (whilst running) on my Z1000SX which runs perfect and it was 14.4v. I then hooked up jump leads to the CBR and it fired up straight away when jumped from the SX. The voltage at the battery of the CBR whilst running was 14.6/14.7v and no fluctuation whilst gently revving the engine. I'm struggling to say anything other than maybe I had a duff battery back in the summer and have been suffering the effects of this ever since. It's a massive coincidence but the rec/reg seems to be stable and giving the correct voltage output. I'll go through the tests to rule out the stator etc. Bizzarre.....
I have a similar issue that came to light late last year - see thread https://www.1000rr.co.uk/threads/sluggish-to-start.36324/#post-473862 Did some checks but couldn’t pin anything down with the electrics but the bikes been laid up over winter - Anyway, I’ve just gone for a new lithium battery and charger https://www.1000rr.co.uk/threads/new-lithium-battery-and-charger.36801/#post-482744 only due mid next week but I’m hoping it will sort my issues. I’ll update my posts with what happens once its fitted and the bikes back out and about. Hoping that wont be too far away now with the way the temperatures are picking up.
Just to close this out.... Performed all of the checks in the manual on the stator, rec/reg etc. and it all checked out ok. Fitted another replacement battery and the bike appears fixed. Must've been a duff battery from the start, so a year of grief and worry over not starting after fitting a new battery turns out to be.... the battery. Fingers crossed it ok now. Cheers for all the help.
My new lithium battery and charger arrived - hope they’ll sort my issues out but wont know for sure until the weathers picked up and the salts gone
