I shouted victory too fast lol Always the same scenario : at the beginning, all is OK with front braking when engine is still not warm. after a 15mn ride in a very slow heavy traffic. When i pulled the front brake, i felt like a bursting bubble in the lever, and the abs light started flashing. what is certain and reassuring somewhere, is that the partial brake bleeding solved the problem temporarily. So, next step, full bleed of the whole ABS circuit !
Note the ABS Bleed instruction provided are for the 2008-2013, 2014+ has a slightly different activation procedure Its simple enough just the front unit can be a pig to reach!.
Hi ! Ready to do the "royal flush" ^_^ this week end, purchased all the items & tools needed. Just one question : i'm not sure to be able to make the difference between the old brake fluid and the new one. Would there be any way to add a color in the current brake fluid in order me to see when the old brake fluid is totally out ? because i have already bleeded the front & rear brake with a new brake fluid 2 weeks ago , and the global color is quite clear. i don't know exactly which color will be the new one (MOTUL RBF 700)... Do you have an idea about how i could be ensured that the old brake fluid is totally out ? Add a color ? lol Use a pink brake fluid ? (Shimano one, for bicycle) use a old dirty & brown brake fluid ? Others ? Thanks for your support
Hi ! just to give you a small update : i started the c-abs full bleeding&flushing operation last sunday... i completed successfully the front valve/power unit, normal lines section. --> made a home tool for the front power unit bleed valve : i purchased a set of tubular wrenchs, followed suit 3 of them, inserted a hose... (see attached photos). thus, no need to remove the exhaust manifold and the radiator. used 2 bottles of 500ml to flush the front braking system. it's a lot, but at least, i'm sure all is clean. next time, will process the rear braking system. in conclusion, as you said, it's really not complex, just it takes time. to be continued... Question : how to remove properly the fuel tank in order to access to the rear power unit ? i'm afraid to break something. for the moment, just unscrewed the 4 bolts. Thanks in advance.
Hi ! Happy new year everyone ! Full abs bleeding & flushing done. (used MOTUL RBF 660 RACING) Front Braking becomes now efficient and hard at the lever. ABS light disappears. Thanks everyone for your support. Just a last question, while mounting back everything, one part falled on the floor but i don't know what is it & where was the exact location ? pictures of the part are attached to this post. does anyone know where it does come from ? I know it comes from the gas tank area, but i dont know exactly. Merci beaucoup pour votre aide.
happy new year! nice job on the abs bleed! that piece is the vibration washer from between the tank and frame, this is where the tank pivots about the frame
oh great ! thank you so it's on the axle where the tank pivots ? don't understand how it could have moved out
Hi Kensou Has this definitely cured your brake problem ? Did you put heat protection foil/ tape over the heat shield behind the exhaust header downpipes ?
Hi ! The problem disappeared yes ! but i dont know for how long it will be OK... I'll keep updated this post if i encounter any issue again. What i did is : * full bleed & flush of the whole c-abs system * used motul RBF 660 brake fluid with a very high boiling point (328°C / 622°F) * put a heat tape like on the attached picture, stuck on the heat shield of the front abs power unit. ( i tested with engine running on idle for 5 mn, it does not burn it's made to support 850 F / 454 ° C (the one i ordered on Amazon) I know that the issue will occur again but when, i don't know, as i use to ride in heavy traffic. If the issue (blinking abs) will not occur before 1 year i'm happy. knowing that i will proceed from now the standard bleeding (only from the front and rear caliper) every year, in order to keep a good quality of brake fluid. Kensou
