All ABS parts and pipes removed and after a recent lowside at Donington I decided to to fit the non-ABS battery undertray both so the clean up her ass and be able to fit CRC bodywork in place of my now fecked up HiFibre fairings. I don't worry about the ABS warning light staying on; previously I was concerned that this may effect power but there's no safety system that may reduce the power if ABS faults. She's making a nice 166 bhp on my local dyno; that's apparently very good for a 2012 bike with standard headers. Oh btw, you don't need to remove the headers but you do need to remove the radiator to rmeove the front ABS unit. I did this later on whilst fitting a Febur WSB spec radiator and oil cooler.
Thanks I never rode it as a road bike; immediately converted it for track so I don't know how ABS felt, but it had to go. I liked my original paint scheme but even though I've trashed those fairing I'm glad to have rid of that fat, ugly undertray. It looks pretty good in these ex Jason O'Halloran (122, O'Show) fairing from his 2014 season in SST1000.
Hey Colin, I have finally started removing the ABS. wanted to know if you removed the ABS ECU as well or left it as it is? I do not see the ABS ECU in any of your pictures. Thanks a ton bro, your steps and guidance really helps!!
Sorry to slide in on this thread but I recently the rear ABS pump replaced, after all the money spent it broke after less than 100 miles, I spoke to my mechanic and he said if I drop it off on a Saturday they'll remove the ABS system for free (which sounds very generous for what looks like a very long job) but said I needed to buy some kind of disconnect kit..? Am I right in thinking I don't need to buy anything to get it removed, I just need the ABS wiring removed? Cheers, Dan
All you would need like mentioned is a new rear brake line and to remove the abs wiring connectors from the loom, he would have to cut a bit of the loom and make a new bridge.
And remove the ABS pump and assorted paraphernalia in the 'box' beneath the rear sub-frame. Word is there's about a 12 kilo saving.
only if you remove all components, main ABS pump under the seat, Plus the actuators on the left side and down by the header down pipes. ABS Ecu plus wiring and all brackets. Hard lines and rubber hoses.... it’s about a days work to remove fully and reinstall new lines and bleed brakes.....
Firstly great thread and lots of great info already posted! I would be really grateful if anyone with experience of the C-ABS removal could let me know your thoughts on my situation. I have a 2016 CBR600RR supplied new with C-ABS. On track the system was awful so I had the whole system (pumps, modules etc) removed by a garage about a year ago. Other than the ABS light on the dash I've had no issues at all. However one thing that always annoyed me was the garage left the actual ABS sensors/rings in place. Today I decided to remove them by unbolting the sensors and simply cutting the cable rather than removing the fairings and unplugging (whatever they plug into???) I then had a scary thought about whether they had been left in for a reason? Did the ECU need the speed signal for another system or to avoid limp mode?? I ran the bike on the stand and all seemed the same as before and even the speedo still worked. I guess my question is whether there something detrimental I am going to face now or will cutting the ABS sensor wiring and removing them be ok considering the entire rest of the C-ABS system has been removed for over a year now? Thanks very much in advance guys!
Hi Mike During conversion to a track bike, a race loom can be bought, leave the loom as is (for possible conversion back to a road bike) or cut off all obsolete connectors / wires. I bought my Blade as a road bike from Padetts but had them convert it to a track bike. Padgetts removed the ABS system but they also left the sensors and rings in place because I believe they didn't want to cut the loom. Everything else, ie, pumps and ECU can be removed without cutting. Also, Padgetts removed all the road gear and they also didn't cut off any of the connecting blocks, eg, for the lights, confirming my belief that they don't cut road looms.
Hi Phil - thanks for your reply! Hopefully the garage i used simply left the sensors and rings in place to make going back to road trim was easier in a similar way to Padgetts did for you and not for any functionality reasons. I'm not fussed about that as I cant see it ever being a road bike again but I'm off to Cartegena in 2 weeks and don't want any unexpected problems ahead of 3 days on track! I've taken the bike out for a short ride this morning and it ran fine, speedo works and bike felt totally normal power wise etc etc. I'm hoping this means me cutting the front ABS sensor cable with the rest of the C-ABS system already removed isn't going to cause any further problems. Does anyone know how the stock dash gets the speed signal for the speedo? Anyone else have any thoughts on cutting the sensor cable causing any issues with the ABS already removed? Cheers Mike
The sensor for the speedo should be located behind the front sproket cover I think mate. The ABS sensor on the front wheel doesn't feed the speedo on any bike as far as I'm aware. I guess if you already have the ABS light flashing on the dash then cutting the ABS sensor cable isn't going to make any difference?
Hi i'm glad i found this thread. I have had a fault with my C-ABS for a while now on my 2010 Fireblade it starts ok light goes out but if you start braking any more than just lightly the ABS light comes on and you feel brakes go into normal mode, an ignition reset turns light off after setting off again till brakes needed again. Looking at this thread makes me want to remove ABS system but has anybody had problems with insurance for issues as bike will not be standard? Also the ABS light staying on, what is the fix? Thanks in advance, i just want my bike to be perfect but not willing to pay the premium to have it fixed at the dealer.
Don't know about insurance, but your bike will be better off without the faulty c-abs system anyways. That being said, you will no longer have ABS whatsoever, so you should not rely on it anymore, if you ever did.
I now own the bike you can see in the pictures earlier in this thread (ColinBR's bike that he removed the ABS from). I told my insurance company that the ABS had been removed from the bike and they said it was no problem. Didn't increase the price or anything.
Just forward them the ABS issues thread and you'll no doubt get a reduced premium for removing the ABS.
