Hi everyone, I need a bit of help please. I was having some battery issues a while ago on a 2006 model (battery was over 5yrs old), kept going dead when not being used. So I fitted a new battery and everything was fine. I'm only getting about 80miles before it goes dead. I had a similar issue on a previous bike, I changed the rectifier and I was all good. I've checked the rectifier and I'm getting the reading of:- 0 0 0 524 524 524 524 524 524 0 0 0 So going by those readings, the rectifier seems to be ok, plus there isn't any visual signs of deterioration. I've checked the stator and the reading on that is about 0.01ohms which is also correct according to the manual. I'm now stuck as to what the issue could be. It can't be the starter motor as it just wouldn't fire up and the battery is on trickle charge, with a reading of about 13.8v.
Whats the base voltage of the battery and the voltage when the bike is running. The stator can pass a ground and resistance check but you will still need to check the voltage on each of the 3 phases - they should all be the same - cant recollect the voltage though. It also helps to have a volt meter on the bike while running helps a lot is diagnosing stuff.
So just checked the volts, Base voltage of battery 13.20v When I start it it drops to 12.70v and the steadily drops and stays at 12.35v
I've also checked the voltage of each of the 3 phases and they are all coming about at about 0.013, which according to the manual, is correct.
I'm getting volts and ohms mixed up. I did what the manual said to do to test each phase of the stator. The figures in the manual was about 0.01ohms which mine is. Who do I check the volts? I'm not much of an electrics man, more mechanical.
Check this out: Disconnect the stator from the charging loom, you should have 3 pins, with the volt meter check the AC voltage between the pins ie 1-2, 1-3, 2-3 each should be the same around 20v at idle but rise significantly with revs. been through a similar thing myself, did all the checks and in the end it was a burnt stator
Was just doing some reading on it, saw the video, was gona watch it later. I'll have a look tomorrow and get back to you. Thanks for your help.
So just been to test it and I think it's safe to say that the stator is well and truly fooked. I'm not getting any readings at idle or whilst revving. Will order a new stator and get it booked in to be fixed.
Ahh that's good news, at least you have a diagnosis now. Nothing worse than chasing electrical gremlins all over!
Its strange not one of the phases is giving voltage, - maybe its worth removing just to double check before you spend the cash. A burnt out stator is pretty to diagnose by sight https://www.1000rr.co.uk/threads/weird-rectifier-regulator-readings.30620/ If you have time you could have it rewound by west country winding?, they're easy to fit just, not sure about 2007 but the 2008 just needed a silicon gasket seal
Yeah it is odd. I was thinking about taking it off and having a look and even replacing it myself. It seems pretty straight forward and it would just be the sealent needed, but it's just my luck that I bit of crap ends up in the engine and then it's all buggered. So would rather let the experts donut and then of something goes wrong, they fix it.
Fair enough, I'd recommend to get a new RR fitted too, sometimes one thing getting knackered will put pressure on a another component causing that to fail shortly too
I'm gona keep an eye on the RR and see how it goes. At the moment, it looks in pretty good condition with absolutely no deterioration to the resin. Funny this is, I ordered one before lockdown, but sent it back as I wouldn't be using the bike and needed the money, lol. I'm also gona change it myself when I comes, but make sure I'm very meticulous about crap getting in the flywheel.
So my new stator came yesterday or as I've now started to call it, my arc reactor, lol. Was gona bite the bullet and try and replace it myself, but can't get the stator cover off. Has anyone got any tips for getting it off please. If I can't get it off, it's provisionally booked in next week to get properly diagnosed and fixed.
tap it with a soft hammer,around the edge where it meets the crank case it might be sealed with sealant so will need the seal breaking,there are tabs you can get some leverage on also around the cover ,carefully prise open with a plastic spatula,or even flat screw driver.
Already tried all that. Been at it for 30mins, gently tapping and trying to lever it off the case & it still ain't budging. The only thing I've not done is the direct split with a flat head into the seal for fear of damaging the case or cover.
IIRC (but on the 2009) has a few dowels that will stop perpendicular movement so tapping in that direction would be ineffective. So you need to tap away from the block if that makes sense. There are a few exposed lugs that you can get behind and tap. Perhaps use a bit of wood to avoid damage?. I used a sharpen credit card ( one of the wife's!) to cut the old gasket seal, once you get it off watch the position of your fingers as the magnetic force is tremendous!
