I am on my fourth pump. I fit one and it works, the next day it is not working ,I buy another pump and it works ,the next day this is broken . Each time the bike gives a 2 to3 second voltage when the ignition is turned on but each day it costs me another pump Any ideas ?
One thing for sure....it's not the pump. Sorry, can't help with your issue, but sure someone will offer advice.
Hi, Welcome, I would say there is a blockage somewhere, I assume you have looked into the fuel system filters. I have not had much to do with the fuel system so can only give my thoughts, Jez
Second thought, fuel systems usually have a return from the pump to the tank, This could also be blocked
Does the bike fire up when the pump primes before going dead? Is the pump polarised, i.e. what happens if you reverse your external supply to the pump? Can you meter the original supply voltage for the pump to make sure it's not too high? Is there a diode on any of the faulty pumps that you can short out to bypass while testing it? Confirm the year and I'll see if there's a diagram to check.
Hi The engine fires up and runs ok before the pump dies When the ignition is turned on the voltage going to the pump is13.6v for 2 to 3 seconds. Thanks.
Well the pump isn't being blown up by a faulty rectifier then and polarity should be ok if the pump is pushing fuel into the fuel rail. Could still be be a fault on the pumps though. Are they genuine pumps and can you upload a picture of the electrics end.
I agree with @Muffking regards suspecting faulty pumps. It's obviously normal to get priming voltage when the ignition is switched on & you should then get battery voltage when cranking. 13.6V is nowhere near enough to damage a fuel pump. Are they cheap pumps you're getting supplied with? As suggested earlier, is the fuel return from the rail to the tank clear/not kinked? That could cause excessive current flow through the motor if it were blocked, but the fuse should blow before damage is caused!?!
I would also have the pumps electrically/mechanically checked to see exactly why they no longer work, this may give you a clue
A centrifugal pump working against a closed head would actually draw lower amps.A closed head condition would cause pump problems (recirculation within the pump, eventually causing overheating, cavitation etc), but they would take time to manifest themselves. I'm also in the suspecting faulty replacement pumps camp....though that wouldn't explain why the original failed in the first instance
I thought these were roller cell or vane type pumps which are positive displacement? It's difficult to get 3 bar of fuel pressure with a centrifugal pump like a turbocharger or water pump. I had an electric window mechanism where the regulator was starting to seize & the current draw kept blowing the fuse. @Paddyk hasn't mentioned the year yet, but maybe the original failed from TMB (Too many birthdays!)
Fair enough, tbh I wasn't sure on the pump type......maybe I am suffering from TMB too Still think the pump amps would drop though
Personally I'd check out the fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator. Also look for signs of water in the fuel ( filler cap overflow blocked)
