Planning to fit a set in next week or so. When I remove the cover bolts, should I copper or aluminium grease the new one's threads or loctite them or just fit as they came with the kit. Doesn't say in instructions. Normally copper grease whatever I remove/reassemble Did search for answer, even a clue but then got sidetracked...........I just spent a relaxing hour reading Martin Deyanov's rebuild thread - boy did that make me feel inadequate. Brilliant thread, absolutely commendable job and posting. I thought I'd done well to fit crash bungs and a tail tidy.
I've always put the bolts straight in, there’s no need to copper grease engine bolts nor locktite them just tighten them to the correct torque
Ok, that's the plan then. New bolts with nothing on thread. My thanks to all respondents. very helpful. Mike
Seen a suggestion to put Stainless washer under all mountibgs to ensure covers the GB covers clear of the OEM engine covers.....thoughts?? Does not seem bad idea except the mount with sealing washer. Anyone tried?? Mike
that would allow a gap between the engine casings and the GB cover which would allow more crap to get in between the cover and casing. I don’t recall any marks being on the casing when i removed my cover for repairs and that’s the only explanation I can think of why you would want clearance between the two. I wouldn’t bother, the oem bolts have a small shroud around it so any mark from the actual bolt will always be covered
OK, valid observation. I suspect may drop the gb covers off each winter just to keep eye on it, shall see. Thanks.
I remove mine every few months to clean the casing etc. Just becareful, the bolts that come in the GB pack are easily sheared. I've snapped oone already
Which takes me back to beginning, wondering if a dab of copper or aluminium grease might help. The torque is low so...... Was thinking hand tight plus half a turn. Will see how I go. Tend to copper/aluminium grease most hardware I touch. Decisions.........
Unfortunately Mike I sheared mine off on the first attempt without using lube. I can only presume that was my own fault for not using greese. Fortunately I can get this drilled out but it's not causing me any issues at the moment.
Not good. May look to change the GB Racing supplied bolts before fitting the covers then Jamie. Given that most seem to say install bolts as received, not sure you can blame yourself, maybe bolt quality since you are unlikely to have overtorqued and they won't have been in long. Mike
Personally, I think the quality of the GB bolts is poor Mike. The only thing with the bolts is that they are longer than the OEM bolts, so check the sizes before ordering, I use a pro bolt measurement ruler (£3 off ebay). I've had titanium bolts from RaceTI in the past and they are good quality and affordably priced. The GB racing covers are in my opinion, the best just a shame about the bolts. Jamie
I've ordered some the right length earlier in stainless and will insert with minimum dab of copper grease. I'm not sure how I feel about the GB covers, as prefer the gold OEM ones but will shove them on and drop them next winter to check all still well. Take care Jamie stay safe.
So, all fitted today with no dramas, easiest fit imaginable. I did use the supplied bolts, since the alternatives I had obtained had too large a circumference hex/flanges head. Also lightly greased each bolt with aluminium grease, backed off torque to 7nm, rechecked after tightening first one and felt that was best compromise for more free running bolt threads. After installing, and when refitting the bellypan, had to open up the drilled holes in the painted fairing side panels for the fairing crash bungs I already fitted. Only as bellypan was being offered up was it apparent the fairing aperture was too small and the crash bungs were pulling fairing side panels slightly inboard. Now sorted. Engine not run to check for sealing but it will be come Spring. Appreciated the views of members in pre-job guidance on this item. Pics next (LHS before bellypan refit):
