Hi, went to fire up the Blade on Saturday just gone and the battery was flat. Charged it up over night and went out on Sunday afternoon. However as soon as i fired it up the ABS light started flashing and the TC light is constantly on. I still (!!) took it out for a good ride (40+ miles) and didn't notice any issues. The ABS is still flashing and the TC light is constantly on. She's booked in with Honda in Jan for annual service. So i can wait til then. But i thought i'd ask if anyone else had experienced with issue. Could be electrical related so i'll check fuses etc. I've disconnected the battery to see if that "resets" anything. ABS sensor was a bit cruded up on the wheel so I've cleaned that as well. Anything else i should be looking at?
Had exact same thing on my 2018 a couple of weeks ago... couldn't find any fault code or see anything else wrong and it ran ok. In end unplugged the ABS module plug (black box just to left of battery) and plugged it back in and was ok? Had just fitted a relay for heated grips so wasn't sure if had disturbed something then. Or that could just have been a coincidence and fault cleared after switching ignition off/on a few times
Thanks. i'll try this. Would it be possible for you to send me a pic of the ABS module just so i'm 100% sure im unplugging right thing. I think i know which one our referring to (only thing there) - but best to be safe!
Fully charge the battery. If your battery is toast replace it. The SC77 system requires 13v+ during operation to work properly. Disconnecting the battery doesn't do anything to "reset" stuff. Not sure where this process came from. See this thread here for more info https://www.1000rr.co.uk/threads/pgm-fi-light-on-2019-sp.40477/
Unplugging the ABS module wont do a thing. Its a placebo action. What ever the error condition is, is either current and will show as a DTC code posted to the DTC Current Code screen or it will be a resolved issue with a posted historic flag that will be purged after a certain number of ignition cycles. Plugging stuff in and out doesn't do anything. It is the action of turning the ignition on and starting the bike then shutting it off that is the having the desired affect, not the unplug/plug action There are 2 ways the bike will post notification of an issue. As a current error that is showing a current code and as an informational historic flag. Current issues will cause a yellow banner to be displayed along with the check engine icon on the lower right. See one is a current issue, the other is historic. Current issues can be debugged by reviewing the DTC numeric codes displayed in the DTC menu. Historic coded issues will not display the DTC code in the Current DTC code menu In this case to access the historic posted code list, you will need to either use a 3rd party plug in code reading tool or using the SCS tool decipher the flashing check engine light. But either way, after sufficient ignition cycles the check engine light denoting historic codes will go away on its own. You can even try invoke this behavior by starting and shutting off the bike repeatedly. Probably take anywhere from 3 to 5 times.
Doesn't the number of times the ABS light flashes also indicate a fault code? Agree with the point on the iffy battery but had one go on me this time last year and this only gave me a problem on hot starting - dash lit up like a Christmas tree. Had same issue couple of weeks ago as posted after pulling wires in for heated grips and a relay so I must have disturbed something, for me if you factor in human error faulty/bad connections are definitely possible...
No need to disturb the ABS module plug to wire in accessories. There is a 12v fused accessory plug right in the tail section specially for such projects - or just tap the entire add-on to the battery. Hopefully the kit is self-contained and fused. As for the the ABS light flashing, yes it will flash the exact error codes. And as noted the cause can be any number of things - vibration, wheelies, wrong tires, continual operation and nearby nuclear explosions.
Yeah its a bit of a pain they don't document the accessory plug better. I love it. Allows me to add and remove various logging and other tuning accessories very quickly.
Hi, Happened to me a few weeks ago with my 2017 Blade, seems like the battery was the fault, it was close to its end. Changed it and everything was fine afterwards.
I mentioned this a couple of months back (not sure how to link to the post - hopefully the link below works) https://www.1000rr.co.uk/threads/2017-ra-h-latest-woes.40303/ I've had the same issue for a few months now. Fault first appeared during a sedate dry Saturday ride. The traction control light came on and then the ABS started flashing. Turning the engine off and back on fixed the ABS flashing but the TC light stayed on until Honda reset it. I then rode into work (commuting into central London) without any issues - a journey of 26 miles which takes a crazy hour to do. Then, on my return journey the TC light came on and the ABS started flashing. So I took it back to Honda. First off, after running lots of tests instructed by Honda Tech UK, they replaced the IMU at a cost to them (as covered by my extended warranty) of close to £800 (ok it won't cost them that, but that's the cost listed on my warranty claim form). Whilst the fault clears (when they reset the ECU fault code), after around an hour of riding it came back. Honda have asked them to check the wiring loom - all passed ok, so the next thing they are potentially looking at is changing the ECU itself. It's been dragging on for a while and I'm very pleased to have the extended warranty - which I'm hoping Honda will extend further given the bike's been off the road for around 3 months this year (not helped by Covid, but you'd expect a fix to work). I'm eagerly awaiting news from Honda about what the next step is. Cynically, I'm wondering if it's a ploy to entice me into getting a new RR-R - although I'd be more inclined to get an S1000RR.. I'll keep the thread updated "2017 ra-h latest woes". Good luck with your fix. I really only thought my problem was a faulty wheel speed sensor or something simple, but that along with the IMU and wiring loom has checked out ok.
Ive only ever heard of issues like this on top end performance cars when the incorrect battery has been fitted or the battery has dropped off in power and isnt retaining a full charge. The battery still works and can start a car but will often create fault codes as its not EXACTLY up to spec. Mclarens i understand are prone to this, as the original lithium Mclaren spec battery can cost a couple of grand (gulp!) so people are tempted to buy a n other lithium battery at replacement time and whilst it sort of works in that you can drive the car you will get spurious error codes. Some Ferrari will also do this too if the battery drops below a certain percentage of charge or cant hold a high enough charge. The car drives fine but these error codes get generated which manifest warning lights on the dash. A real world problem with high performance specifications and complicated and integrated electrical systems. I would certainly be asking the dealer to try an experiment with another brand new battery and see what happens.
I have seen and solved a number of similar issues with SC77s and all boiled down to bad operating voltage.
Thats interesting and sort of confirms my own suspicions it could battery / charging issues. Feck knows how the world will look once we are all driving electric vehicles because it takes very very little to throw these complex systems out
