I'm looking to replace most of the rear of my fireblade, I have the appropriate workshop manual and I'm silly enough to attempt the repairs. According to the manual I'll need to work within a broad spread of torque settings 4.2NM (3.2lbf.ft) - 113NM (83lbf.ft). Any oppinions on what's more suitable a battery powered impact gun or one or more tourque wrenches? Something like the Teng Tools TTX1292 TORQUE WRENCH 1/2" X 18 1/4" 40 - 200NM for £95.00 or a Erbauer EID18-LI 18V 1 X 4.0AH LI-ION EXT Brushless Cordless Impact Driver for £120 0 - 160NM Any wisdom or previous experience and advice always welcome.
Never the gun Just torque everything I once rung off a brake caliper bolt so I now torque everything on the bike Can’t go wrong then
Cordless impact wrenches are brilliant, but you don't need one on a bike. Much more useful on cars, but that one is too lightweight anyway. Halfords Advanced torque wrenches are good aswell if you have a trade card.
I am very weary of doing something like this, the wrench does seem more suited to my immedeate needs, I also like the Halfords Advanced lifetime guarantee.
I have 2 tengs 5-25nm and 20-100 and halfords for 100+. Lol the halfords is only used on the rear wheel nut! Also have a 2 breaker for the stubborn ones
Seems like I'll need a minimum of two. I've heard Teng are decent but the lifetime warranty is compelling.
I don't mind using an impact driver to remove screws/bolts, but as others have said.. this is more useful on cars than bikes. I will use a ratchet set (Halfords are great, or any other name brand) to undo bolts and re-assemble them up (so they are snug). The torque wrench (I use Halfords Advanced for home use) is used at the end to torque them to the correct setting only. I don't use them to undo bolts or during the assembly stage as it will likely cause the wrench to go out of calibration quickly. Hope that helps
My dad was a mechanic for 50 years and didn't use impacts for assembling anything. He always complained about tyre centers gunning the wheels up too tight. I once stripped an important nut on my DT125 when using a torque wrench. I set it by the book and it pulled the thread right off. Originally i blamed a miss print in the manual but later discovered the torque wrench went way over. I took it to work at the power station and tried it on their digital calibrated test bench. Set 100Nm and it went near 120Nm. I swore at it and then clicked again and it was perfect. Several more times it was bang on. I changed setting and kept testing and all came in bang on. When it hasn't been used in a while it sticks. Now i set a significantly lower torque and give it a few clicks before using and haven't had any more problems.
I am an engineer and I usually use a battery drill on low torque setting if I have a lot of bolts to fit then torque up with a wrench after, As stated impact guns are ok for fastener removal
Jesus christ, an air gun on a blade ? No ! As has been stated, 2 good quality torque wrenches, one low (0-50) one for the rest. Drills with sockets, fine for speed, but only to finger tight, the rest with the wrench. Always start threads with your fingers, feel fo cross threads, then use drill/whatever. Most parts require a tightening sequence, torque at same time as applying that sequence.
Was thinking more a battery tourque gun, as I've never owned either a torque wrench or a gun I wasn't aware if they can be used for lower torque applications. I thought it would also be useful for car maintenance tasks too. I ended up opting for the Halfords wrench due to the lifetime warranty. Your advice regarding thread care and tightening sequences is perfectly sound tks.
They are not torque guns, they are impact guns that are great for removing fasteners in the right circumstances, you should never reassemble anything with an impact gun unless you know why you are using it to reassemble, Most at best have limited torque settings that is why people complain when garages use them
