Hello. I'm a 70 year old guy who hadn't ridden in about 26 years. I just bought a 2022 CBR1000RR this past April. Why not? I just put 4" Apex risers on it because my neck killed me when I rode. Huge difference! I can write up a very detailed instruction on it if anyone wants. I have one problem... I am from Horseheads, NY, USA. Please don't kick me out. I'm hoping to learn more on here than I did on another CBR1000RR forum I was on.
Hi and welcome to the forum - post some pics of the bike. We’re a friendly bunch and don’t discriminate against none UK members
Thanks for the welcome, guys (and gals if applicable). Here's some pictures of my bike with Apex risers.
I have quite a few more pictures showing clearances with the fairing and shelter. I am having trouble uploading them.
At the young age you are, and having a small spell of non riding, you have certainly regenerated your youth with the brilliant selection of revisiting the adrenaline rush. Absolutely WHY NOT. Welcome. Certainly worth a read on the installation of the risers.
It says the pictures are too large. Even when I only try to upload one. I was able to upload two on the previous post. Each is a little over 2MB, I think. I'm better at working on mechanical things than I am at dic#ing around with computers, lol.
Apex instructions. Note, I do not know what the differences may be between different years and different markets. I am in the US. (Excuse the inch measurements.) I added 4" Apex risers to my 2022 CBR1000RR. I thought I could ride about anything, but I'm 70 years old and due to numerous injuries from wrestling in HS and college, I was only good for about 20 minutes before my neck was killing me. It was not at all an easy job. It took me almost a month, so this is the best I remember. I would suggest having a Service Manual, but that thing's far from complete or even correct. If what follows is too long winded for you, there's always people that make a "quick video" on YT where they scatter all the parts and tools on a gravel driveway, if you'd rather watch them than read. 90+% of it can be done with a 3mm and 5mm t-handle hex, and an 8mm and 10mm nutdriver and sockets and ratchet. You will need a 1/4" torque wrench for the Apex fasteners and a 1/2" or 3/4" torque wrench for the 41mm nut holding the plate on top of the fork tubes. I found out the following plastic bodywork has to be removed: 1) Lower bodywork belly pan (same as for oil filter change). 2) Plastic clutch cover. 5mm t-handle hex 3) Right side front fairing piece (that says CBR1000RR) 4) Front seat and Front shelter (gas tank cover). (This may not be necessary, but it's very expensive. I didn't want to bugger it) 5) Small black parallelogram shaped cover halfway up the frame on the right side. 5mm t-handle hex one screw. (This is necessary to access the space in the frame to coax new clutch cable in. The first thing I did was measure to the center of the handgrips with the original bars in order that I would know how much I had moved with the Apex risers to order a clutch cable and brake lines of correct extension. I measured in all three planes using the midpoint of a ruler placed on top of the fork tubes as 0,0,0. I made a couple of drawings and then started disassembly. I put an old tshirt over the LCD dash and a big towel under the rest. Undo the actuating lever for the electronic anti-wobble for the forks. This is covered in the Service Manual. I removed all of the brake fluid and the reservoir to eliminate the possibility of spillage. I removed the rubber handgrips with compressed air, although I eventually realized I didn't have to take the one off the throttle side. It's necessary to remove the top plate in order to get the original clipons off. You need a 41 mm socket for the center nut. That is a 2 man job. It was tight! I had to wiggle the top plate from the front while pinching the fork tubes between my knees, not easy. Next was removing the clutch lever, left switch, left clipon; and brake master cylinder, throttle/right switch, and right clipon. Grind off the plastic nub inside the left switch housing and the steel one in the right side clamp that locate in the little holes in each original clipon. The Apex have no holes. It would be impossible to know where to drill them, for Apex or you. Trust me. I put on the new 3 pc clipons with switches, levers, etc. and reinstalled the top clamp. It's then necessary to reinstall the front shelter and jockey the different adjustments for the risers, clipon piece and handlebars until nothing hits. This is VERY tedious. I have my risers all the way up (bottom flush). I measured and my new measurements were approx 2-1/2" back, 1-3/4" up, 1" wider per side. That moves the grips by a little over 3" total. I then knew what extension brake lines and clutch cable to order. Clearances, extensions, and measurements of course depend on how you have the pieces rotated and how high the riser pieces are set. An awful lot of diddling to not hit the front shelter backwards or the windshield or fairing forwards. I could have had my handlebars rotated higher (9 deg pilot on the end), so then I'd be higher and not so far back, but then things hit the windshield or fairing. I like it the way it is. Your mileage may vary... I ordered the following: 1) One foot piece of 5/16" ID EPDM tubing from Pegasus Racing ($2.50). Delivery a couple days. I used the original fluid reservoir and bracket. I took the bracket off the master cylinder, straightened it out a bit to better level the reservoir and rotated it a little CCW, as viewed from the top to clear the windshield when turned to fork lock position. 2) 4" extended brake lines from Core Moto. Delivery about a week. They included all necessary grommets, clamps, and crush washers, but I did order a few spares. (I may have gotten away with 3" ext??) 3) 3" extended clutch cable from Venhill. Delivery 2 weeks plus, but they were very upfront about that. The wires for the left and right switches originally run to the middle of the bike and "around" the fork tubes to the outside. I ran them directly to the outside of the fork tubes and straight up. They were plently long enough this way. I lengthened the 2 horn wires by 3" The banjo fittings on the new brake lines are extremely close to the spades on the brake light switch. I even bent the spades away slightly. I used the supplied double grommet and clamp in the original top front threaded hole. I used the supplied single grommet and clamp in the original holes on both sides of the fender. I simply put the wheel speed sensor wire and original clamp on top of the right side brake clamp. The clutch cable is a nightmare. It's a two man job. I originally tried to hook the new one to the old one with fishing line and electrical tape and pull the new one through from the bottom. This does NOT work. The long steel threaded piece at the clutch end will not make the turn between the frame and engine. We left the fishing line in to help mark the path inside the frame. The cable goes through a very small space at the top of the radiator between the radiator and frame (visible from the front). I removed the lower right side radiator bolt and top left side radiator bolt (8mm socket) to get a slight bit of wiggle room. The cable has to be pushed from the bottom while being guided behind the frame. A helper needs to watch and guide the cable from the right side front to make sure the cable is going into the correct gap at the top of the radiator. Even with removing the 2 radiator bolts, it's still a very tight fit. Then fill and bleed brakes (not fun), adjust clutch cable, replace bodywork. Replace rubber handgrips using rubbing alcohol or hand sanitizer to help you. Jockey the switch housings, brake and clutch levers till they work and feel right. Check clearances and function of switches, levers once again. Yes, I can use the fork lock all the way to the left. Now ride more comfortably. I know I am.
Thanks for those comprehensive photos. That looked like a long job but if it allows you to ride comfortably well worth it. And don't worry about your age. I'm 73 now and won't give up my Blade until they come for me with a long box. Age has it's small advantages. Last time I was stopped by a cop he started with "Right sonny" until I took off my lid and he said "Sorry Sir"
Looks good to me - do anything that makes it easier for you to enjoy the ride I say. Pics too large to upload is a common issue. One of the easiest ways to get round it and reduce the file size is (if taken on your phone) screen shot the photo, crop the edges and post that image.
Welcome Bernie......you must now hold the number one position of the longest and most detailed post in the history of the forum.
Hi welcome. Your bars look to be a better position than my gilles vairobars. Did you consider a top yolk and fatbar conversion?
