Hey everyone, I just picked up a '04 1000RR and the guy said he never opened up the engine so figured I'd check valves. Everything was in spec (@36k, hot damn!) so no adjustment was needed. Put her back together and didn't fire up. Please help! Here's a breakdown of the chain of events: Initial (immediately after vc check) -Broke clip for 3rd (L-to-R) ignition coil when sliding intake air duct on. Clip slides on fine but slides out easily, fixed with zipties (see attached pic) -PAIR valve removed, PAIR hoses plugged on valve cover and on airbox right side -Intake duct flapper vacuum line plugged (see attached pic) -All hoses and clips attached correctly, heard fuel pump doing its thing, fully charged battery 1st troubleshooting -Noticed fuel dripped out of bottom fuel injection line but not top. Figure this is b/c it's not under pressure -Noticed a missing cap to the 3rd throttle body timing rod (? a tiny black locking cap under throttle body, near clamps, attached to a thin rod that can be pulled out to full extension for adjustment. See attached pic). Replaced it, but not sure about position -Put PAIR valve system back on complete w/ hoses -Adjusted throttle cable since it was sticking before -Noticed idle adjuster was all the way tightened. Loosened so rod is half way from stopper Notes: -Bike started just fine before clearance check. Don't think it's spark plugs, nothing to do with air flow (all PAIR system lines attached now) -The tiny vacuum line that attaches under throttle body is indeed attached -No leftover screws, nuts, clips or hoses I appreciate any and all suggestions! Help me, I'm sad :'( -Madcat
What happens when you try to start it? Does the fuel pump prime, does it turn over, do you get a spark etc. Am sure that will help the people who know about such things, not me though I just stick to checking silly things like the kill switch and the tilt sensor if you removed it.
Sounds like the fuel line under the tank is trapped. It happened the first time I lifted my tank and it's happened to others too. Lift your tank back up and straighten the fuel supply pipe before lowering the tank back in to place.
Thanks for your quick response. Yeah the engine turns over, haven't checked for spark since it was firing 3 days ago but that's up next. BAS wasn't moved.
Keep the ideas coming guys! I appreciate it. Could it be the crankshaft position? Wouldn't think that'd have anything to do with it since I never pulled cams but I never did return it to proper in-out after checking 1&3 exhaust valves...
I doubt that would prevent it from firing. Had you checked the tilt sensor? These have been known to be left disconnected or refitted upside-down.
Hi everyone, Couple of updates: -Checked for ignition coil placement. Sprayed (off and on) throttle body cleaner into the throttle bodies while starting but it seemed to bog the motor down, then it wouldn't turn. Back to normal earlier this morning but haven't tried it again. Battery tinder read fully charged last night but left it on all night anyways. -Heard a hissing noise when trying to start. Would a vacuum leak cause it not to start or just affect performance once started? -Noticed the joint piece for the Idle Air Control shaft had fallen down. Replaced to proper position -Bank angle sensor was never touched (in response to an earlier reply) Thanks for the help!
IT STARTED!!!! Thank the Lord. Idle stop throttle body screw was out of place after triple-checking. Now, when I turned it off I tried starting again. This time it chugged and chugged slower and slower without starting. Thing barely turns over again Thoughts?
Thanks for reply travelling kiwi! I actually figured it out same day but hadn't heard from anyone so never updated. It was indeed the battery charge haha. Bearings are pressed, rear frame is in, clutch and rear brakestands all linked up, new headlights, exhaust, and new fork seals/fluid. Only fairings left baby!!
*rear brakes all linked up I am having a problem with the fuel pump not priming now. Assuming I tripped my bank angle sensor when testing the lights. Anyone know how to reset the BAS?
It does not need resetting, just make sure it is the right way up. You can test it with a multimeter for continuity. Check your fuses and kill switch for any issues.
