I've just been noting down the things I'd need to do and the parts/consumables i'd need to get if I end up performing the 16k miles valve clearance service myself rather than paying Honda or someone else upward of £450 for the privilege. I've put these in order I think I should do them (e.g. checking the valve clearances whilst the engine is stone cold, so before the oil change, etc.), but please shout if you think anything with this is wrong, or I am missing anything, or if there is anything else that I should also be looking at after 16k miles/2 years (note: brake fluid was done about 6 months ago, so that's fine) - fork oil maybe? Also to note, the checking of the exhaust headers and fitting of an APE is because there is a sort of ticking noise coming from the front of the engine, which I figure is either a leaky header or a funked CCT - thought i'd check both while the bike is in bits. Service list Parts: Oil filter Air filter Oil sump plug washer Oil Coolant Suspension pivot grease Exhaust header gaskets(?) APE cam chain tensioner Work: Remove fuel tank cover, belly fairing, side fairings Remove fuel tank Remove airbox(?) to access cam cover Check valve clearances Refit cam cover Fit APE cam chain tensioner Refit airbox Refit fuel tank Run engine - Check idle, smooth running, revs etc. for correct cam chain tension Drain oil Remove old and fit new oil filter Refit sump drain plug with new sump plug washer Fill with fresh oil Drain coolant Remove/lower radiator Check exhaust headers - remove and refit with new exhaust header gaskets/exhaust sealant Refit radiator Fill with fresh coolant Remove exhaust can Remove and refit suspension linkages with fresh grease Refit exhaust can Refit fuel tank Run engine - check oil and coolant levels and top up as necessary Refit fairings
Coolant should be changed every 3 years, however brake fluid should be changed every 2 years. Not sure why you would want to remove the exhaust headers, but greasing the shock linkage is a good idea.
guessing at a 16k service,bikes tend to get a lot of crud up there so is a good idea to strip them down and check the studs/nuts etc. even though all that needs to be done at that mileage,i shudder to think what the labour bill for all that will come too.you'd be surprised how easy most of that is to yourself.
My Blade did 80k and the studs and bolts for the exhaust were never undone / checked. If I am correct they are a 'use once, then replace' item as don't stay tight after being undone
You can reuse studs and bolts as long as they not stripped or cross threaded. Have you got access to shims? You might get away with moving some around if you find clearance is out
is that the same as caliper bolts?... never heard that myself,and tbh they are only torqued up to quite a low force so wouldn't worry about them being overly tight anyway.
Since my engine was replaced with new headers a couple of bolts came undone after another 11k. They were tightened up to torque but worked loose again. Have ordered replacement studs and bolts to prevent happening again as fair job to remove rad and fairings to access.
CCR32, To get the valve cover off you will have to remove the PAIR valve and associated pipe work and the radiator. There is so little space that you have to take the valve cover off over the front of the engine - it will not come out of the top between the frame. Other than that, your plan looks good
Thank you all for your feedback. Iain - thanks. Brake fluid was done at last service so no need for that for now. Coolant, figured I may as well if I was going to have to drop the radiator anyway (though that said when I did this on the CBR600 I had previously, I didn't actually have to drain the coolant). Exhaust headers I was going to take off and look at/refit because there is a noise which either sounds like an exhaust blow or something ticking away in the engine (hence CCT) - looking and prodding around today however, it may be as simple as a misdiagnosis from me of the location of the noise and actually the join between the centre section and end can - I've siliconed it up today so will see if that stops it before throwing more parts (or labour) at the bike! djmrmagic - yes, I may as well do the plugs too if doing everything else! Think service manual says only a check is required at 2 years, but replacement is not going to do much harm other than a bit of a dent to my wallet. Cbrjay and Sax - thanks for the tips/heads-up for the valve clearances. I am beginning to think I should shy away from this myself for now owing to not having exactly great facilities to work in and that it may take me more than just a few hours to work out how it all comes apart, and goes back together again! A well-known and respected tuning company has quoted me £150+VAT to do the check while it is in there for a dyno PCV tune, so may well just do that and all the other service items myself. Iain - just a thought when I was crawling under the bike today - will I need an abba stand or similar to be able to grease the shock linkage? Guessing now that I wouldn't be able to do it on a paddock stand as the swingarm will still be under load...? Thanks again all.
Get a pair of cheapo car axle stands these will work fune under fixed footpegs to allow u to remove shock and lunkages.
