Hi Gents and ladies Fitted new Hel brake lines and been trying to bleed the brakes on my Sp. Given up now its beaten me. Anyone who can help. I'm in chichester West Sussex area. I'm on my knees lol
Post no 238 on this thread has the full pdf download of the abs brake bleeding if you take a look... Good luck
Whats your issue? getting it into bleed mode or completing the process? Note +2014 has a different procedure from 2009-13
OK before you even start without turning on the bike bleed the lines until you have a super hard lever. Also you might need to clear any errors on the ECU before you proceed Then follow from page 690 on this link http://1000rr.co.uk/threads/08-11-service-manual-pdf-download.119/page-2#post-364422 note point 2.5 on page 698 you will have to be like a hulk on steroids to activate the bleed process. If too much air exists in the lines it will not work so you might need to bleed the lines conventionally again. Its not that complex really its just how its written
Strange you say that because I was in a dealer's yesterday having another nosey around the new blade & when I got bored I started the abs brake/bleeding issues conversation as you do.....mainly because I'm facinated on how well they've learnt the deny it all mantra & the various technical jargon! After a bit of bollox I was informed the process would cost about £300 on both the old & new blade as they've now new tools to make the job quicker! I then remembered my place & wandered off to look at their summer collection of pink tinged ladies leather gloves
Hi all, if i change only the master cylinder on a fireblade sp 2017 do i need to follow all steps of the bleeding process? thanks
you should be able to change it without a problem, air wants to go up in liquid, so if you just change the master cylinder you will be fine as long as you let the air come back up through the port in the master and don't try to bleed the brakes through the calipers
Huh? With the greatest respect, Dan, as soon as we release the banjo, even if held in an upright position, surely there is every likelihood that some air will be trapped on re-installing. Are you suggesting that Sergio 'reverse bleed' from the caliper bleeder? That would work on a normal 'non-ABS' system, but I suspect - without definitive knowledge - that once air is in the ABS system, it is a beast to get out - hence the long-winded bleed process.
Nigel i have been working on bikes for over 40 years, i have done a fluid change on the ABS blade, air will rise up and come out of the port in the master cylinder, you may have to move the bars in order to get the port as the highest point but it will be ok, honest
Fair enough, Dan. I'm not necessarily disputing your knowledge and experience, but merely trying identify for Sergio's benefit whether this task might be a tad complex for someone who actually asks the question. To me, there is a high risk factor for the inexperienced, just as I acknowledge my own inadequacies in seeking advice for suspension settings. Enough said though. I think that between us, and whoever might follow, Sergio will benefit from our thoughts. Cheers!!
Valves to the ABS modules/pumps only open when the ignition is on ( on the 2008 - 2016), not sure if the 2017 is the same as its a totally different system. So if you change any part of the conventional system you 'can' just do a conventional bleed. Just don't start the bike until you are sure the lines are air free. Get air in the pumps and you will need to do an ABS bleed! I used to replace lines, calipers, MCs etc with just a conventional bleed with no problems. However best practice would be a full bleed
