Morning - Searched the threads - lots about removing the ABS. I've just bought HEL lines and blanking plugs. My intention is just to remove the standard lines, coil up the sensors and crack on. Any dramas or tips with this? 2015 blade. Cheers - Chris
I am in the process of doing this. Done the back but dithering about routing the hoses at the front. The hex head bolts used on the clips have a tendency to strip their heads and I had to drill one out. The big bits can come out later...
Cheers Nigel, I'm assuming its an easy job (bar the bolts you mention) remove the hoses, fit blanking plugs, coil wires and sensors up and stuff em in somewhere?
I was hoping to do the 'rewire' quickly without a huge strip down but I'm not quite sure how to feed the front hoses for best result. The shallow head soft bolts are annoying.
I’ve just booked my first on-blade track day at Donnington so I’m wondering if I need to do this. (It’s mid April so I don’t have much time). Question - does pulling the abs fuse under the seat achieve a similar thing as a partial disconnect? I read in the manual that in the event of a fault the solenoids close so there is effectively a direct line from brake lever to calliper.
Yes, correct this is how i run mine. The light will stay on but thats an easy fix too. Been planning to do a full removal for while but other things come up Obviously you’re still carrying the extra abs junk/ weigh and it takes a bit longer to bleed but still able to do two finger stoppies so braking power is still plenty! The feel without the solenoids is great too, once bled correctly you will actually have feedback and a nice firm lever
Just reread, cb1000r abs actually works! Totally different from Cbr abs cbr abs is always active, it regulates the piston pressure all the time , cb abs only kicks in when a lock up is detected then pulses the lever/ piston