Advice buying used Blade 2004 to 2007

Discussion in 'General 1000RR Discussion' started by Ben_Cross, Jul 22, 2020.

  1. Ben_Cross

    Ben_Cross New Member

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    Hi Guys and Girls.

    Hope you dont mind a new member jumping straight in with a request for info but wanted to tap into the forum's expertise. I'm looking at buying a used rr4/5/6/7. Is there anything I should look out for that these models are prone to or know faults I should be aware of on top of the standard stuff to watch when buying a used bike?

    I'm planning to use mine for commuting a couple of days a week and bit of touring maybe but also keeping as nice as I can to admire so really want to find one that's in good nick and reliable. No track days or crazy fast road riding. I ride enduro at the weekends so happy to keep to that for bonkers stuff!

    Also is there a massive amount of difference between the 4/5 and 6/7?

    Thanks in advance for any info and looking forward to joining what looks like a top forum properly when i've got it :).

    Cheers, Ben
     
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  2. Selmer50mark

    Selmer50mark God Like

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    Hello and welcome Ben , the RR6/7 is the one to go for , its been tweaked in a few areas like higher compression ratio , higher redline, bigger front discs ,improved handling ,lighter and is two teeth up on the rear sprocket for better acceleration,,,,,, and looks better ,,,,,, but I'm bias ,,,,,I have a RR7 ;)
    20190623_132225-1.jpg
     
    #2 Selmer50mark, Jul 22, 2020
    Last edited: Jul 22, 2020
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  3. Wes

    Wes Active Member

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    Nah.......RR5.
    To be honest they are all capable machines and when you spot the “one”, be it a 4/5/6/ or 7...(the 5)....check pedigree is all legitimate and up to scratch and you won’t go far wrong.
    Enjoy whatever you finally decide on mate (5) lol
    50D23C03-3ECB-430A-A7B9-7D5A3C17C217.jpeg
     
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  4. Selmer50mark

    Selmer50mark God Like

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    Started something here :D:D;)
     
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  5. Muffking

    Muffking God Like

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    Having had both, apart from the gearing and bodywork, there is nothing that will make a significant difference between the two. Yes sure there are some differences like disc size, shock mount, ECU, exhaust box, headlight etc, but nothing that will make the 6/7 any faster/better/more reliable than the 4/5. Just stick a larger sprocket on the 4/5 and it's every bit as good as the 6/7.

    Having said that, I do prefer the look of the 6/7 fairing, but in either case they are both typical Honda bomb proof, so choose based on the important stuff like is it a good 'un.
     
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  6. Marc

    Marc Active Member

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    Hi Ben,

    I've had my RR6 for 18 months and 8000 miles now. I've got a lot of bike mags etc from 2006 and the main thing that gets mentioned every time in terms of differences between RR4/5 & RR6/7 is the gearing. They suggest it gives the later model more punt out of corners etc, just making it feel more interesting. Easy to change on the RR4/5 though so not necessarily a deal breaker. As has been pointed out there are technically a lot of differences between the two but unless you were very tuned in and rode both back to back I'm not convinced you'd notice personally. There are definitely subtle differences in the looks department and that's what swung it for me, I slightly preferred the RR6 but horses for courses where looks are concerned.

    In terms of issues, I'll try and be subjective but alas, I have had quite a few, far more than any bike previously owned. Think I fell into the trap of thinking a) it's a Honda so no need to worry and b) I'm buying from a main dealer so no need to worry. My naivety means I perhaps wasn't as cautious as I could have been. In the interests of fairness the issues I've had are no doubt due to a combination of things, previous owner neglect, age, bad luck, etc. I wouldn't let it put you off buying one, just be meticulous when viewing/testing and don't fall into the trap I did. I've suffered with:

    1) Brake calipers sticking on - needed a strip down and replacement of seals.
    2) Overheating issues caused by a failed radiator that needed replacing.
    3) Pitted fork legs that had to be replaced.
    4) Currently on my 2nd electrical issue which has rendered the bike unusable.

    I previously rode a '96 Thundercat, with 40k on the clock, through 6 winters and had zero issues with it. Just goes to show that neglect will affect any bike, even a Honda.

    When it's running though I think it's a superb bike. Great engine, loads of grunt and silky smooth. Handling is perfectly balanced, looks great and I've done 300 miles in a day a few times and it causes me no discomfort at all. Brakes a bit marmite, lever travels too far for my liking and I'd like more power in them but I've read lots of other owners views who like them. Easily changed with a replacement master cylinder by all accounts if they're not to your taste.

    Hope you get yours soon and it's a good un, looking forward to some pics. Forum is very friendly and there's some great folk on here.

    TT.jpg
     
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  7. dern

    dern Well-Known Member

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    I've have my rr7 for 5 years and nothing has gone wrong with it and nothing has been required apart from servicing.

    Just check all the usual stuff but make sure that the valve clearances have been checked and adjusted. They need to be checked and made sure they're in the right part of the range rather than just checked and put back together if they're there or thereabouts. 'Just in' doesn't mean they're ok for another 16k. Don't take any nonsense about "they don't need doing until 40k, you'll be ok mate". You might be ok but you might not. All my exhaust clearances were tight at 20k so make sure it's been done and adjusted. It's an involved job so if someone has done it and changed the plugs you've got less to do.
     
  8. Kentblade

    Kentblade God Like

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    RR6/7 all day long, fairing changes turn it from a bug into one the best Blades built, and all the other changes add up into a serious bike.

    As for issues above, sticking calipers on any Nissan/Tokico caliper on Hondas that have been used in winter conditions are a given, 2 things need doing regularly, free up the disc mounting bobbins, the crud seizes them and the disc will start to warp. Simple bolt and nut through the bobbin, 2 spammers and tighten it to the point where you can force the bobbin to move back and forth, you’ll be shocked the amount of crud that flakes out, if you winter ride with salt it’s a monthly job to save yer discs.

    Crudded up rads, again common on bikes used in adverse conditions and expensive to fix, fender extender is your friend here.

    There was a fork leg recall, bit I can’t remember which Blade I was running at the time.

    Mag sump corrosion, due to dealers or home mechanics using the wrong sump plug and causing galvanic corrosion, can’t remember if that was the RR6 or RRA.

    Valve clearances, need checking once at 16K, and once they are correct, unless the thing is bounced continually of the rev limiter, and top grade oil is used and changed at the correct intervals, you are very unlikely to have touch them again.
    That’s come from covering nearly 350K miles on Blades and doing my own maintenance.
     
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  9. Ben_Cross

    Ben_Cross New Member

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    Thaks very much for all the input. Funnily enough i think the 4/5 edges the 6/7 on looks (but hey I like the blue colour scheme too). From what's been said I don't think id notice the difference the sort of riding i'm planning doing and i'm happy to up the rear sprocket teeth. I'm going to try hold out for 'the one' based on condition / history as opposed to a specfic model / colour model. Anyway, all tips most appreciated. Cheers!
     
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  10. dern

    dern Well-Known Member

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    That's useful to know, never had a bike long enough to find this out. Thanks.

    I had a fork recall on the 929... the one where the bit at the bottom cracked.
     
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  11. Muffking

    Muffking God Like

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    Fortunately never affected us on here as it was pre 2004.
     
  12. Kentblade

    Kentblade God Like

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    Yep that was the problem, 929, couldn’t remember, although I did crunch 95K on it in 3 years and the only thing replaced was the discs, monster quality in those days.

    Funny how Honda recalled that, but bottled it on the mag sump issue and the ABS fiasco, sham of a company nowadays.

    To the OP

    Webbed it and it was the RR6/7 that had the sump issues, if you view one then take a look at the sump around the drain bolt, it very easy to see if corrosion has set in.

    Found the original thread on here about it, and the fact that mine was goosed as well
    https://www.1000rr.co.uk/threads/oil-sump-corrosion-on-my-07-blade.16501/
     
    #12 Kentblade, Jul 23, 2020
    Last edited: Jul 23, 2020
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  13. dern

    dern Well-Known Member

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    I ignored the recall (never a good time to get it done) and then totally regretted it when the crack that I hadn't seen before opened 5mm at the top after the first session of a track day at Pembrey. Had a sit down and a smoke by which time it had closed up so rode it home :)

    Great bike although I did have the stator issues at 40k and mine spat a plug at 15 or 20k requiring the head to come off for machining. Had it from new and the only service the dealer did was the post running in one so I know it wasn't cross threaded. Did hear a couple of other people had the same issues but there you go. Never found a bike anywhere near as good until I got the rr7.
     
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  14. Dave86

    Dave86 Member

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    Don't forget the reg rec joys! They can both burn out and leave you stranded.
     
  15. NS400R

    NS400R Elite Member

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    I had an RR6 for 12 years from new. Awesome bike. Nothing ever went wrong with it. Only downside for me was a heavy clutch compared to later bikes (08 on). Heartily recommended.
     
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  16. Gravel trap

    Gravel trap Elite Member

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    love my rr4. apart from stator and rectifier twice . winter commute killed a rad . and yes I going to put a mastercylinder on it because I'm not a fan of the feel. but I've done 30k so far . she's a keeper.
     

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