Hi, About to swap out the axle nut for - LighTech Special Nuts Honda CBR1000RR 08-14 Positon 4 on the chart. Any idea what torque I should use? I can't imagine needing the 108nm as per the manufactures spec. It there a quick use to torque settings for changing wheels? I don't have the service manual. Cheers.
Personally I wouldn't use an alloy nut on something like an axle nut! Titanium would be more appropriate.
What is the strength of the aluminium compared to the strength of the steel used in the original nut? About 1/3rd? So about 1/3rd the standard torque? Doesn't sound like a good idea to me either.
I know a few people who will use aluminium but personally wouldn't take the risk. I went for the Gilles ACM Nut for added security which is made out of Titanium
What they said. Spindle nut keeps back wheel straight. Should be able to apply as much torque as you can manage , so stick to steel or buy Ti.
For such a high torque application I would avoid Aluminium. I guess Lightech have done the testing but as said you need the torque to keep the wheel in place. Also IIRC you can get galvanic corrosion between steel and Aluminium especially in salty conditions - not good. If your thing is low weight and durability Titanium is the way to go. Got a titanium Gilles ACM nut with Lightech Adjuster - this is torqued to the OEM spec.
As all the above have said go titanium, however don't for get to put molybdenum disulphate grease on the nut
Lightech came back with a torque figure of 15% less than manufacturer's standard (with my maths 113 - 15% =96.5). I'm going to give it a go and see if it shears or not!!!!! Its on a track bike so it will get checked more regulary than a road bike.
I had an Aluminium rear wheel nut on my single sided swinging arm Ducati for ages and it was fine. Well the wheel never fell off anyway !!
If there was a history of aluminium nuts failing, I'm sure there would no longer be manufactured or at least warnings and examples all over bike forums. I had ally sprocket nuts on my 600 k7 torqued to much less that the steel ones. I did one track session, checked the tightness and they had not backed off any. Finished the track day, rechecked with the same results. If you don’t hear anything else from me after January assume it has failed and so have I!!!!!!!!!!
I've seen a couple fail, they spit if they are going to fail, they have a hellicoil type thread to stop them from stripping when torqued up. Only posting so you know what to look for, as I say they split rather than strip. A mate of mines sproket nuts spit only a month or so back. Not uncommon IMO.
Would be wise, if I am honest I'd not run one. 100% true they do split and its hard to see too! My mates was only seen on his sproket as we had the wheel out, just shows you, and yeah they sell them for that application and I feel that is wrong. Btw his were ProBolt alloy sprocket nuts.
Just not worth entertaining alloy on critical fasteners IMO, there's no benefit and the risk is exponentially increased. I had an alloy one split on the front axle of my Ducati. I did not fit it and found during routine maintenance.
