And another bike died thread!!

Hi guys,

Took the RR5 up to Keilder yesterday and was enjoying some amazing roads as we rode into Scotland and then the dash goes blank and after a mile the bike dies. So over 100 miles from home and I'm having to be recovered.

Given my model year I'm automatically thinking reg/rec and stator. So it's been on the optimate all night and I've checked it this morning with a multimeter (although I'm not proficient with one). Looks like the battery is charged and I'm getting about 13 volts without the ignition on. Turn the bike on and it drops ever so slightly. Run the bike up to 5,6,7 k etc and absolutely no extra volts are showing so I'm assuming it's def the charging system.

The question is this, before I rush out and buy a new reg/rec and stator I've just installed some Chinese repsol fairings and could I have nipped a wire?? Would this make any difference given what the multimeter is saying?? I'm thinking not as the bike will run fine with everything working until it runs out of charge. Any ideas would be warmly welcomed even though I know we've done this topic to death.

 

sounds 99% charging system.. and as you mention, the Reg is prone on this age of bike..

 

Thanks Gilesy. If it's just the reg/rec then that would be cheaper than both or do I need to get both done at the same time?

 

Reg/rec cheaper so I'd do that first then do stators after if required

 

Wouldn't the volts still show a difference when the bike is at 5k revs if it was just the reg/rec though. Sorry I'm a bit of a mechanical cabbage

 

Un-plug the rec and check the AC voltage coming out of the alternator ( YELLOW wires) with the engine running at idle and then at about 4-5000 rpm. Most 04/5 Blades punt out about 13-18ACv @ idle and it should rise to about 40 or more ACv at 4-5000 rpm. Test each wire (yellow), should be about the same voltage.

 

Thanks Haggler, is that under the right side middle fairing?

 

Blades are renowned for their poor charging systems. Early blades the rectifier /regulator had too small a base to dissipate the heat effectively. On the 04-05 models poor design where the gap between the stator coils and magnetic rotor was too small so when the unit heated up the expansion magnetised the coils to the rotor. Dealing with such failure you need to establish the culprit first before you spend money in the hope of a cure.

 

take off the side casing on the stator and look inside at the coils to see if they are scored or burnt,this will give you an idea if it's thast or not,but not foolproof.

 

Thanks all. I've taken the fairing off and checked the wiring for the stator. Using a multimeter with both probes in two of the three output wires and setting the meter to AC I tried revving the bike to 5k and not a fart on the meter. I thought I would've got some sort of reading so I'm now assuming it's either dead or I'm useless and doing something wrong. I've now phoned a garage to get a quote for changing the stator. I reckon I could do it but with my luck at the minute I'll probably break something. Thanks again John

 

Right, I'm a tit. I've checked again and the output from the reg/rec with the bike running alternates as I rev the bike, it also does the same on the stator so I'm hopeful they are both ok. What I can't get is any change in volts when I test it at revs across the battery. Does this mean the battery is FUBAR or wiring somewhere?? Thanks again for all your help guys.

 

tbh even with a duff battery it should show voltage change across the terminals.

disconnect your battery,check the voltage,then go check it in a few hours,this will tell you if it's holding charge or not.

 

Check the DCvoltage at the green & red wires coming out of the rec............should get a DC voltage of about 13.5-14v at idle. Then check it at the battery....should be the same.

 

Since this is a 2005 model which has a history of burnt out stators I would remove the cover and visual inspect the 18coils. An electrical check like continuity, voltage or resistance sometimes is not conclusive.

 

I've done just that as per attached pic. To be fair it's not as bad as I was expecting but at least two of the coils are toast. I'm assuming it's best to replace??

 

That is toast mate. Only long term fix is to visit Mr.Honda and buy the updated OEM matched flywheel and stator. Circa £350.00 inc VAT. You can replace/recondition the stator but it'll only happen again in a few thousand miles.

 

On my 2004 all 18coils were burnt to a molten gunge.lol. So glad you got a result F1

 

Just wondering if it's worth spending the money on a 9 year old bike with 24k on the clock or getting a new stator and trading it in for a newer blade.