I am looking to change some of the settings on my R6. I had the suspension setup by Parkitt 2 weeks ago and it feels a bit better, but still not how I would like it. I want it to turn in quicker, my 750 was simply a little flick and it was straight over, the R6 feels very sluggish. Going to first try taking some tension off of my steering damper although I'm reluctant to do this because going through fast corners like coppice at cadwell it needs to be rock hard. The 750 had wide bars, ktec front internals and an ohlins rear shock, also dymag wheels so naturally it will turn quicker but there seems to be a huge difference not just a slight one. I thought R6's were supposed to be razor sharp? A few people have suggested dropping the forks through yoke to give it some more flickability but I have contacted the suspension tech at Parkitt who advises against this as it changes the geometry of the bike. He instead suggested placing a 3mm spacer at the top of the rear shock (Standard shock, revalved and sprung by Maxton). Can someone explain how making different changes affects the way the bike handles? I don't really want to raise the rear end as it already feels too high up. Just doesn't feel right for me. I'm at brands in 3 days and going into my first race riding a bike that I'm still not comfortable with. Almost tempted to sell up and start again on a different 600.
1st and foremost turn down your steering damper,this will be a big part of it,you need to learn to let the front be a bit looser otherwise you'll never be able to feel what it's doing. dropping the front forks is what most people do as it's the easiest option,it will basically make the bike feel more twitchy from any input put through the bars,it will turn in quicker due to the head angle being sharper (this is where the geometery comes in to play),and also will put more weight on the front,pretty much same as jacking up the rear,but the geometery will stay the same,for me i usually tend to drop the forks and take it from there,you can move them up and down untill you get the best feel.
Yeah the neil at parkitt did mention dropping the forks would alter geometry but raising the rear (shimming the shock) would keep the same rake angle but turn the bike in quicker. Dunno where to get shims from??? Guess I need to find a happy medium with the steering damper. Seems the faster you go, even though im not massively quick, the more adjustments you need to make and change the bike to suit your changing riding style.
thats the thing,it's always an evolving thing,just because you get it feel right now,doesn't maean as you get quicker it will still feel good,but it's littel tweaks usually,not massive adjustments. the other thing that can effect your handling is your wheel base,if your rear is too far back,it will make the bike feel sluggish in turns,but give it more stability on the straights and help keep the front down,again,a happy medium needs to be found
Is the r6 rear shock not a similar setup for shimming the rear shock as the gsxr's ie just head down to b&q and pick up some big washers n put em in at the top shock mount?
Yeah was hoping to get some C shaped washers so I can try different thicknesses without having to take the shock out. Just lift the rear end and slot em' in, as it where.
Just had a quick google m16 (reactive suspension say m14 for r1/r6) washers is meant to correct size, as far as c shaped washers what's wrong with makin ur own with a hacksaw?
sod there rear, drop the forks mate, guys like us won't feel the difference in the geometry start with 5mm or so and go from there! Shouldn't have got rid of the 750
I tested out a 2010 R6 at Cadwell last year that didn't have any steering damper on it at all. It was fine, maybe a bit 'flighty' in places but nothing that felt it was going to chuck you off, turn around and come back to make sure you've had enough! So I would say start with winding that right back and see how you get on. Also check your front tyre profile too, a nice V shaped tyre is what you are after and different tyres affect the steering response massively. If you do want to alter the geometry to speed things up then either dropping the front or raising the rear will do it but if you do drop the bike nearer the ground just look out for ground clearance. Presumably the guys at Parkitt got all your sag settings sorted out? Check if you are using all the front fork travel, if you are not then you need to be reducing preload, spring rate and / or compression damping in order to get the bike on it's nose which will let it turn in quicker.
Yeah tbf when he set it up i was going 6/7 seconds a lap slower so ill start with steering damper and the adjust the front suspension. Ive forgotten what does what tho already lol
