Well, I've done about 500 miles with a PC5/Taylormade combo fitted and whilst removal of the MOE exhaust seems to have moved the 'GO!' step down from 5000rpm to 3000rpm my bike seems to be running 'rich' and feels 'fluffy' at the lower (around town) gears/speeds/1500-2000 revs. Also, just after starting from 'cold' it seems to go through a stage of over richness by blowing a little black smoke for about 15 seconds before settling down and clearing itself. I mentioned this to a mate (that tunes bike engines fitted to cars for a living) and said that I probably needed to get the PC5 calibrated on a dynometer. They're not exactly growing on trees here in the back o' beyond tho. His opinion was not to bother and fit an 'Autotune' instead. So, as either way it's going to cost me the best part of 200 beer tokens and also, I will need to weld in an adapter for the 'Autotune', I could do with some thoughts/advise from anyone with similar experience. I have, of course already downloaded and installed a map from the Dynojet websight for my set-up. Your views, gentlemen, please? Nick.
IMO, if you have no major mods in the pipeline (can, decat, filters etc) it makes sense to have a custom dyno produced map for best power first before you run a AT. Then you use the AT to trim the map to adjust the map for different conditions. As you have a good base map the AT should only trim by small percentages, also you will know when the AT is trimming too much and make the appropriate adjustments to the target AFRs.
From memory of previous posts I think its better to have a custom map then run the Autotune to fine tune the custom map for the riding conditions on the day. I'm sure Arthur did a write up on this?
I've got a few different maps sent from different guys off here, when comparing each with the ones available off the Dynojet. All for the same set-up, eg K&N, Yoshimura R77, 2009, but all are so different. The fuelling maps have not only different figures, but vary so much, one could have a line of minus figures and another map on the same line plus figure by a big gap. So there's no way anyone can say this map is for this set-up and be correct. A proper Dyno session is the only way to get a good map for your bike. Then get them to do the AFR graph which the Autotune follows. The Autotune AFR graphs that you get on the Dynojet maps all have the same 13.1afr target which wouldn't be the same for idle, cruise or full throttle runs. So must be done at the time of the Dyno mapping to find the perfect AFR for all areas and corrected.
Not always mate, the dyno tech can see what fuel ratio suits your engine at each rev level and tune for that without goin too far an causing damage but the autotune would need to have the exact same fuel ratio's the tech found was best for your engine in order to keep the same sort of power output. Dynojet add a broad range of fuel ratios to its base maps which the AT attempt to adjust fuelling to meet but there is a very high chance they will vary from what the tech has decided runs your engine best! (not all engines give same power output at the same fuel ratios as another!) The figures inserted by dynojet are a compromise and attempts to be a best of both worlds trying to give good power delivery and good fuel economy while at cruising throttle ranges! So just adding an AT to your bike even with a really good base map setup from a dyno run may be sent completely out of whack as the AT tunes away from the tech specified fuel ratios to the more sedated dynojet figures! Also most dyno operators will not spend the extra time to add all his fuel ratios into your new custom map only his static trim values, so in most circumstances the AT will do nothing when it's connected to the bike as it has no table of fuel ratios to try and adjust the fuelling too.
