Was just polishing the blade and wondered what everyone uses? I have used a few throughout the years but have stuck with crystal glo acrylic polish for the last 10 years, it polishes very nicely and leaves an acrylic layer over the paint each time you do it which helps stop stone chips and removal of dead bugs is alot easier too
Ive been using Mer Polish for ever now, gives a nice finish and nice and easy to apply and work. Protected my old blade well so hoping it will for this newer one too.
Muc-off Miracle Shine for me. Great at getting plastics, metal, carbon, etc clean and a really deep shine. Contains carnauba wax which protects and is really easy to apply. Also doesn't have that annoying white residue that other polishes leave on the black plastics. Smells a treat too!
AUTO GLYM - Super Resin Polish Even put it on the lights and the screen. Like you say helps with dead bug removal. Sadly it does leave a bit of a mark if you get it on the seat. Usually give the paintwork a clean first with ArmorAll Heavy Duty Car Wash - do not need much of it diluted - and use a clean micro cloth to avoid scratches.
ACF-50 on alloy and black bits when it needs it, WD40 to lift oils and shite from the wheels, Autoglym plastic and vinyl for black plastics (even brings car plastics back to their as new black colour), Autoglym SRP or MER on bodywork and Mr Sheen for a quick spritz before popping out.
I don't use polish but detailing spray after a wash or a clean. My thinking is that polish always removes a bit of the good guys as well (the clear top coat lacquer). Mr sheen or a silicon spray would be my second best choice. I would not say no to Pure wax but the price puts me off! TBH I don't even polish my car even though it has a much stronger and thicker paint layers
Depends on the polish whither it removes paint or not. The line between polish and wax has been blurred badly. The likes of autoglyms super resin polish does have some cutting particules but they are not very abrasive and break down pretty quickly as it's designed to be used by hand and not machine although it can be used by machine. SRP also has good filling properties which can make not so perfect paintwork look pretty good by filling in the lighter scratches and swirl marks with a polymer. Paint prep polishes such as dodo juices lime prime lite does not have any abrasive particles and uses chemical cleaners to cleanse the paint before a wax or other protection product.
Hi I think people get mixed up with polish vs wax. If your bike it newish (upto 5 years old) the paintwork doesnt need a polish... just wax Only use a dab of polish to remove marks that wont wash off. My recommendation Easy on/off no residue fantastic shine and protection... best ive used. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Boora-WAX00...4772&sr=8-1&keywords=Boora+Carnauba+Wax+Paste
Loads of good polish's out Have a look here. Where I get many of mine http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/ If your looking for something to look after the paint then Finishkare 1000HP paste is excellent http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/sealants/finishkare-1000p-hi-temp-sealant/prod_589.html and the tube above will last years Dodo juice is very good. http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/wax/dodo-juice/cat_59.html
Tube......tube ........naw naw naw Matt that what's called a big assed tin. Mine still looks like it's never even been used and it's done winter prep on two cars and a 4.3m caravan, 3rd car I was playing with nano coatings from wolf chemicals!
My current wax is from nippon shine.Thought I would try out a Japanese Wax for a change http://nipponshine.com/shop/body-sealant/fusso-coat-light/
Nippon shine seems to get some good review http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=328751&highlight=fusso-coat-light
After reading all this - and the comment about Auto Glym having some minor cutting qualities, figured to get some wax as the bike is only a couple of months old. Hard work, wax on, wax off - SIMONIZ Original wax. What I don't get is why the lack of a smooth surface after wax polishing. Nice and shiny and all residue removed - but still not smooth like it was after using Auto Glym SRP. With Auto Glym the paint surface is so smooth, you can drag your finger nails across it and it just glides over like ice. Used this in the Land Rover club days on my Discovery, as branches and brambles would somehow slide across bodywork easier and help protect from some lighter scratches. So is it just this wax that has failed to produce an ice smooth finish, or is it the same with all waxes ?
The purpose of a polish is to clean the paintwork for you before you apply the wax protection finish. What you will find has been happening with the srp is the chemical cleaners and slightly abrasive content will be removing any environmental contaminants that have bonded to the paintwork, the filling materials will also fill in any small imperfections in the paintwork along with the acrylic polymers bonding and hardening to provide some protection against the elements. SRP is known as an All In One(AIO) type polish which does a bit of everything in one hence the name, the AIO type polishes have a cleaner element via either chemical or mechanical methods. This cleans off the paintwork to give the best chance of the protection sticking and lasting as long as it can. Another element of AIO's is often some sort of filling properties which help hide and disguise swirl marks but only temporerally while the AIO is present on the paintwork. The last element of the AIO is its protection by either a synthetic like acrylic or carnauba wax. most AIO products although they contain some protection element they don't tend to last very long and using other protection products after the AIO such as a wax in the case of SRP autoglyms HD wax for a warmer look to the car and also lots of beading water during rain or for a more clinical look autoglyms extra gloss protection which promotes the water to sheet off during rain. Staying with the same brand of products will guarantee the best in longevity as they are all designed to work with each other where as another brands product may actually remove some or all of the previously applied product.
^^^ Ok, thanks for that info. Although the bike looks nice and shiny, I am a bit concerned that the finish is not ice smooth like it was with the Auto Glym. For me one of the reasons for a polish is to help keep the paintwork protected and easier to clean - dead bugs splattered all over the front in summer, and road crud in winter. So, thinking I will go back to Auto Glym, if it is not too late by putting this Simoniz stuff on it ! (or am I stuck with it forever !) Wonder if I can use Auto Glym to spruce up my Arai Helmet ? - soon find out.
Whoa there! I was told by Crossans ( Arai dealers ) never to use polishes on helmets, especially Arais as it causes the plastics to go brittle. This causes the little tabs on the side pods to break. They suggested damp cloth and buff up should be enough. I got fed up with paying £30 for side pods and went to the dark side (Shoei)
