OK, This may well end up numpty of the year award nomination material Had to put standard rear line back on the bike with standard rearsets - original switch re-wired in fine. Original line is re-fitted but I cannot appear to get the air out of line - tried getting air out initially at the banjo bolt on cylinder, the main bleed nipple and just cannot shift what I guess is air in the line stuck at the highest point. Have a bleed unit but it never starts to pump fluid through, keep expecting it to stop pumping air fluid to appear but nothing. Anyone got an ideas ? Have tried undoing the banjo bolt on master cylinder but still no luck
Maybe the squash washer not sealing correctly, if not a new 1? Even if a new washer it may be the culprit
The Copper washer that fits between the hose union and the caliper .Had the same problem in Scotland dude .God knows how he's going to order a curry .lol
If you want I can get Craig to explain it to you with him being a mechanic, but you'll struggle even more with his accent than mine
I think a big thank you is in order to Sinewave for his continued help in adding links to some threads .
Thanks for advice / info - its one to look at tomorrow sometime , that device looks handy to pump fluid through, makes sense that would work
Thats for pulling the fluid out of the reservoir, prior to adding in new fluid and bleeding the brakes. Basically it stops you drawing shit brake fluid through the system.
Bang on, used one of these to good effect recently on the 929. Only thing I'd add Al is with the line connected take the caliper off it's mount and place it as low as possible then try bleeding it. Had a similar issue with my lads pit bike and this worked a treat.
Hmmm ok, I have never got on well with the reverse brake bleeding kit AKA a syringe and piece of tubing for actually bleeding systems, I only use a syringe to sook out old fluid n crap out the reservoirs before refilling with new stuff. I have got the mityvac kit as well and get mixed results bleeding with that too, the best way I find is the standard way of pumping lever a few times holding it n opening nipple to release air, repeat till all traces of air are gone! If you are having trouble getting the fluid to come thru the lines either raise the reservoir higher or lower the calliper, everything should be lower than the top of the fluid level in the reservoir gravity is your friend here and bleed as mentioned above! As for the washers as long as they are not too squash damaged or split they should be ok to reuse just make sure your not over tightening them! G-luck
Oh also if you are using one of the reverse bleeder kits make sure the nipple is clean n does not have any gunk or muc inside as you will introduce this into you brake system!
Just thought I would throw my hat in the ring on this post If you are going to re-use the copper crush washers you should first refresh them by holding each one in a flame (like your gas cooker) until hot then drop into cold water . This expansion gets them ready for crushing again To all those who already knew that .... accept my apologies ( eggs suck grandma ) but hopefully it may be of use to some on here
Good tip that Nutty, I didn't know it. Always use new ones, but handy to know all the same. I'd also score shed loads of brownie points with the wife as she says I don't cook any more!
The process of heating copper is called Annealing, it softens the copper and allows it to fill gaps in parts surfaces caused by machining, down sides are as the copper washers are so thin heating them can cause them to crack when compressed much the same with copper head gaskets that are often heated to refresh them prior to refitting, the process can only be done a few times before cracks form. I've reused the washers many times over the years for different reasons and never had problems (needs must) nowadays I have hundreds of them so they get replaced each time as they should. As for bleeding the rear brake like others I never use reverse bleeding but do have a vacuum bleeder, tbh I only use it to remove the fluid from the system and then to start the bleeding process I.e draw fluid through without pumping, after that the last bleed is done in the old fashioned way, pump, tighten, release method, have never had to remove and reposition the rear calliper on a blade.
