As Samd1985, myself and maybe others have found out, the c-abs bleed manual does not show you the location of the front power unit. If you follow the picture diagrams, it doesn't tell you when to bled it but it does if you follow the written flow chart. I have bled the system twice following the pictures in the bleed manual, but I was still loosing the c-abs system when the engine got hot (heat soak to the front c-abs power unit I believe). The thezipsteruk, confirmed that his brakes have been working correctly since his front power unit was bled under warranty (fingers crossed for him). To get to the front c-abs power unit, you have to remove the following items; 1. Remove lower cow (belly pan), 2. remove air intake cover (underneath the headlights), 3. remove upper inner covers (black plastic covers covering air tubes), 4. remove middle cowls (fairing panels) on both sides 5. remove the radiator, 6. and finally, remove the front c-abs heat shield You should bleed the front power unit just after bleeding the simulator and power valve on the front valve unit in the picture diagrames.
Had to remove all of this so I could carryout the full front bleed of the c-abs system; Bike with everything removed to gain access to the front power unit
Top man! I'd actually just come on here to ask how easy it is to remove the radiator. Looks easy enough, and great to be able to see the front power unit in the pictures. Have you just done this yourself then? Sam
Hi Sam, Yep, just removed everything and bled the front system again including the front power unit. Refitted the exhaust system and radiator which I flushed out. Need to buy some coolant and refill the system, have you seen where the coolant expansion tank lid is!!!!!! It's tucked away by the swingarm, gonna need a long necked funnel to top it up when I do the coolant I forgot to take pictures of when I first stripped off the bodywork, the ones shown are after I cleaned up the engine and exhaust and put the exhaust and rad back on. It's was a bit manky and I feel ashamed of myself
Sam, I did put it in the other post but i'll repost it here; To remove the radiator you have to; 1. Remove lower cow (belly pan), 2. remove air intake cover (underneath the headlights), 3. remove upper inner covers (black plastic covers covering air tubes), 4. remove middle cowls (fairing panels) on both sides When your sitting on the bike, top left hand side you have a fixed locating pin, on the right you have a fixing bolt as well as in the middle on the bottom of the rad.
Due to the close location of the exhaust system downpipes to the front power unit, I have just ordered a roll of self-adhesive reflective heat tape as Honda see it fit to just install a metal heat shield. Cool Foil Tape | Heatshield Products
Great thread Barry!, Mine seems to working fine with just the valve bleeds but I have some braided lines on order so may need to bleed the power unit also. So I don't screw this up is the power unit bleed just done at this point?
That's what I was hoping for when I followed the Honda air bleeding manual, the brakes working correctly afterwards. But alais, these things are sent to try us That’s it; bleed the front power unit after you have bled both points on the valve unit (simulator & power bleed nipples). I had heard of this magical front power unit, samd1985 and thezipsteruk gave me a nod and prod in the right direction. When you do replace the brake lines for braided ones, I would apply some self-adhesive reflective heat tape to the (so called power unit heat shield) whilst it's apart.
I currently have my bike stripped to bleed the C-ABS system and noticed the front power unit. Im wondering if there was any problems bleeding the cooling system after removal and refitting of the radiator? I thought the power unit looked fairly new (i've had the bike less than a year) as it looks a lot cleaner than the surrounding area but yours Barry107 looks just the same.
The radiator is straight forward, it's just award getting to the expansion botle to top it up. It's hidden between the rear of the engine and the swingarm your need an adjustable long necked funnel to top it up. It takes 3lts of coolant for the radiator and a further 0.34 in the expasion tank.
It's cleaner the the surrounding area because the Power Unit has the metal heat shield installed over it, this keeps the road crud off it.
Cheers Barry107 glad to hear its a bit more straight forward than it looks. I will add the power unit and the radiator remove and refit to my list of things to do. Thanks for your help!
I want to purchase the actual honda manual for the CBR ABS (with includes ABS bleeding) anyone know where I can get from? I don't want to spend the kids university fees that only tell me how to change the oil!
Slick, I could only find a manual for the 08 model Blade and also the C-Abs bleed manual to download for free. C-abs bleed manual; http://www.barstewardsquad.co.uk/oracle_docs/Combined_ABS_Air_Bleeding.pdf 08 Full service manual; http://cbr.deathace.net/files/08cbr1000rr_sm.pdf None found by either Haynes or Clymer.
I've just purchased this: 2008-2013 Honda CBR1000RR / CBR1000RA Part# 61MFL05 service shop repair manual about £30 all in from the US but I'm not sure if it contains the ABS bleeding procedure. I do have downloaded copies but do like to have official copy to hand when fettling around on the Blade
Can you have a look Slick? Looks great value anyway and this statement from the Ad looks promising? These are new, dealer/factory service/shop repair manuals just as the dealers have and use. NOT a CD manual and NOT derived from a CD manual! Why pay more?
