Best and cheapest place to get them and which ones? Also what's it like to change pads front and rear on the ABS models?? Thankyouplease
Got some EBC hh off ebay. ABS is easy to change. Once the old pads are off just clean everything with proper brake cleaner and lube pistons with redgrease before pushing the piston back in. (You dont want to push dirt back into the calliper) Use that nylon wrap stuff that peeps used to bind boxes to clean the hard to reach areas of the pistons. Also coat the backs of the pads with silver grease to limit sticking pads and corrosion. The pad pins need a cost of silver grease too. if you havent got grease get these small tins off ebay, small but will last ages K12 Copper Graphite, Aluminium Graphite Compound & Red Rubber Grease 3 x 18 grms | eBay
Is there a dummies guide to changing pads and brake fluid? Im an apprentice engineer so not maintenance shy just never done it.
TBH Honda dont charge that much on top of the price of pads IIRC 1 - 1.5 hr on top of the price of pads but it is an easy job. look in http://1000rr.co.uk/maintenance/119.htm for the manual but the dummies guide is Loosen pad pins Remove Calliper bolts Remove Calliper Remove pad pins Drop out pads At this point I like to scrub the discs with wet n dry Clean everything Red Grease pistons Push pistons in a bit Silver Grease back of pads ( with the metal shims in place) Install pads Silver grease pad pins and reinstall Reinstall calliper Medium loctite the calliper bolts Torque up calliper bolts then pins Do the other side Important Reprime callipers by pumping levers Test at walking pace Go for a slow ride and bed in new pads Edit: Probs a good idea to also clean the ABS speed sensors and do a conventional fluid bleed
Bought a vacuum bleeder but IMO its PITA as it sucks air from around the nipple making it look like air is still in the fluid. Prefer just to do it ole Skool with a clear hose with a valve at one end and pump lever and loosen/tighten nipple etc. According to manual you should have the ignition on while bleeding but have the headlight fuse and stop horn/turning fuses removed I will be buying one of these though Speed bleed valves Auto brake bleed nipples Honda M8x3 | eBay - nipple size is TBC should make bleeding easier!
Spoke to my guy at Shorrocks and he tells me nothing but nothing comes close to SBS Dual Carbon pads. This fella really knows his stuff, he presented the trophy to the 1000 Superstock winner at Oulton Park recently on behalf of Pirelli. Apparently one guy tried them in the 675 Challenge Cup and now every single one in the series run them! And worst pads on the market were Brembo! Over-priced and over-rated, said he'd had nothing but complaints about them, just ask And7rp2, he went through a set in one trackday!
SBS Dual Carbon are recommended for Track only, so one assumes they need some heat in them and the discs to perform at their best? Not ideal for a Road Bike then?
Maybe you're right Sinewave, but then so are most dark visors and race cans, doesn't stop peeps using them on the road though.
DC are for track use as you need heat'em up first, for road/track try sbs road/race sintered or stick with oem pads.
There was a discussion on the Fireblade.org forum about how SBS DC don't perform very well in the wet. As above it's because they are designed for hard Track use and thus need a lot of heat in them to perform. Road biased pads will out perform any Track pad as high heat retention is next to impossible to keep on the road.
I put SBS street excel pads in mine, much better feel and stopping power than the originals. Not a fan of EBC pads.
