Break Caliper Servicing

How do you mean "sticking"?
It's normal for the brake pads to drag the discs a bit if you spin the wheel - is that what you mean?

 

That's Just normal, if you've washed the bike or got it wet at least! The material in the pads has certain metal components, and your discs are effectively Iron. This will cause the pads to rust ever so slighlty and stick to the discs. Nothing major to worry about if you use the bike regularly. I ALWYAYS Dry the wheels Discs etc with a leather on paddock stands if I know it's going to be parked up in the garage for a while, as they can make a mess of the discs if you leave them in a garage with all the grime(salt) off the roads it really can make things BAD real quick. Using some brake cleaner in a spray can helps too, as it gets a lot of the grime off that a normal hose down, cant or wont do. But my experience is to Dry them.

 

Agreed with RepsolBlade.
Another trick when parking up for a while is to make sure that pulling the brakes is not the last thing you do before you put the bike in it's parking spot (this helps to make sure they're separated from the discs as much as poss).

 

With respect gents, the pads don't contain anything that will rust! The pads are dragging on the discs because the pistons are not withdrawing back into the cylinders when you release the lever. The pistons need a good clean with the pads removed and pistons pumped out about 1 cm. Get em shiny and try to flush out any crud with brake cleaner. If they keep dragging and the discs get hot, then you need to strip calipers , clean everything, fit new seals, lube em with Red Rubber grease, rebuild and bleed. If you can't do it , bring em down here and I'll show you how or pay bike shop a fortune to do it!!!

 

Doubt brake dragging is covered under warranty mate. You're gonna have to pay or do it yerself. PM ya number for a chat???

 

I agree with your advice however, many manufactures are still using Iron Powders instead of Stainless Steel in their pad compound make up, which does cause the pad to stick and causes rust! I for one only use EBC Double H Sintered, which doesn't use Iron powder. And is Copper based, which cannot rust!(It doesn't contain the compound necessary for rust! And they work brilliant wet or dry!
Back to the Brakes in question, if you can hear a binding or feel it, then I think you have a problem! Ans as for the dealer not doing anything about it, then I would throw a stop in the shop and start throwing chicken feathers at their customers until you get their attention! Sticking after 4 months????? I don't bloody think so! unless you've been off roading and not cleaning it after, which..... errr you shouldn't have, unless there's something you want to tell us all!! It should not do that!

For tech info on Double H http://www.ebcbrakes.com/motorcycle_brake/sintered_brake_pads/double_h_superbike_pads/double-h.shtml

 

Yeah, you're probably right that they SHOULD do summat about it after 4 months, but I doubt they will for free. Personally , I prefer to do my own servicing etc, then i know it's done right!!! I understand that a new bike is under warranty, but is it an experienced mechanic doing it or some scroat with no experience, mechanical aptitude or interest in doing a good safe job!!!! If your brakes are constantly getting hot when NOT BRAKING, then they need to be looked at before the disc/s warp. Good luck with it.

 

I'm stripping down the front calipers next weekend and I've invested in a brake piston removal tool which grips the inside of the pistons. Anyone used these before? Are they any good? Also, any tips on bleeding after re-fitting?

 

i stripped mine today and cleaned the pistons and pads, greased pins etc.

about 2800 miles or so and they were pretty dirty so worth doing