Crash bungs

Discussion in 'General 1000RR Discussion' started by Radu, May 28, 2024.

  1. Radu

    Radu New Member

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    Hi guys,I need some advice,o want to install some crash bungs and I want to know if it a an easy job or do I have to go a garage.
    I ll put some pics of the bike so you can tell me if that is the right place to install.
    Thanks
     

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  2. Boothman

    Boothman Elite Member

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    From memory you’ve a 2006 Fireblade - have you already purchased the crash bungs? What makes have you looked at? Usually they are through the fairing forward and levelish with your knee. Some need you to drill the fairing others don’t. I’m sure others with experience of your model and fitting bungs can advise, but (just my opinion and ready to be told otherwise) they don’t mount where you have photographed.
    For some ideas have a look at

    https://www.rg-racing.com/browsetype/Crash_Protectors/Honda/CBR1000RR_Fireblade/


    https://mgspe.co.uk/product/honda-cbr-1000rr-fireblade-2004-2007-crash-bobbins/
     
  3. Radu

    Radu New Member

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    Thanks for the reply mate,to be honest the makes are not that important to me as long as it does the job but i prefer some protectors that will not require drilling the fairing,so if you have some advices in that direction i will be grateful.
     
  4. Broadie

    Broadie Active Member

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    Normal position is the engine front mount with the fairings drilled. Meaning most of the weight in below if you have a spill.
    If you use the swingarm bolt, this could lift the bike and force the upper front into the ground. You could also bash your ankles on it.
     
  5. Pmc1

    Pmc1 Member

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  6. Radu

    Radu New Member

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  7. Pmc1

    Pmc1 Member

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    I fitted them myself - a simple enough task - takes about half an hour.
    I’ll try to post some photos tomorrow.
     
  8. Radu

    Radu New Member

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    Thanks mate.
     
  9. Pmc1

    Pmc1 Member

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    Couple of photos of the crash protectors fitted to my bike which is a 2004 so has a different fairing to your 2006 but they’ll fit in a similar way - see YouTube link for fitting - again might be slightly different but will show you how easy it is.

    EFAD397F-8C3D-43A3-A408-195DC5F51F3C.jpeg

     

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  10. Radu

    Radu New Member

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    Very well explained video even for a newbie like me who never did any work on a bike before.
    I do think the fairings are the same as my 2006 I just have to check that again and after I will order the bungs.
    I will keep you updated on this and I woul like to thank you again mate for the useful information and advice,cheers.
     
  11. Radu

    Radu New Member

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    I took this pics so you can see my fairings,what you think they are the same like yours ?
     

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  12. Pmc1

    Pmc1 Member

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    Your fairings (2006) are different than mine (2004) but I presume that the company making and selling the crash protectors has taken the differences into account.
    You can always return the protectors if they don’t fit.
     
  13. gentlybently

    gentlybently Active Member

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    Hi, I'm a new member but this is a topic I'm involved with currently.
    I fell off my 07, at a standstill when it stalled. I was shocked how much damage it did. Prior, I hadn't been keen on crash bungs, and I still don't think they'd help much in a real crash, where the bike was chucked up the road. But, in my case they would definitely have helped.
    The main issue to concern me was discovering the offside crankcase had touched the road. It seems just a light marking and I haven't cooked the bike to see if there's any sign of leaks, cracks etc.
    Bungs fitted to the lower engine mounting point would certainly prevent the engine contacting the road.
    I have a set of R+G bungs that they suggest are fitted by replacing the lower engine bolt with their supplied version. They are pretty crude to be honest.
    My preference, is to tap the original hollow Honda M12 coarse bolt, to M8 fine, and use that to fix the bung to the bike.
    Running an M12 bolt in and out of the engine casing, every time the side fairings come off, is not good practice, imo.
    Using this type of concentric fixing requires a notching of the fairing. You could get the fairing off if the notch was big enough, but the bung would then still be stuck out, in the way.
    The offset version shown above, is an option I hadn't seen before. Even from a topple the bike hits the ground with a thud, and I'm wondering about the bending moment the offset would feel. The concentric style feeds the thud directly into the frame.
    Be interesting how you get on.
     
  14. Nigel H

    Nigel H Active Member

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    I would have thought the average bump would rip the head off an M8, even an HT, one.
    I have the standard R+G ones so I drilled the fairing and have to scramble to not-drop the spacer regularly.
    However, not having dropped the bike, I can't tell you if it is all worth it.
     
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  15. gentlybently

    gentlybently Active Member

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    R+G's choice of the lower engine mounting was obviously for economy. It was there and suited their purpose.
    The M12 bolt is sized for the job of fixing the frame rigidly to the crankcase. It is marked as torqued in the factory and is not intended to be removed in the normal servicing of the bike.
    My intention was to build some compliance into the bung's fixing. I want the weak point to be the fixing, and it to fail while saving the engine casing.
    M8 fine was suggested because the existing M12 bolt is predrilled to almost the exact tapping size for M8 fine. It fits without removing significant material from the M12 bolt.
    The M8 would live within the existing M12. This would be a very solid location.
    I doubt a nylon/polymer bung could shear the head from any bolt in this application.
     
  16. SimonRR

    SimonRR God Like

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    GB Racing make awesome crash protection including bungs, very good stuff and look great to
     
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  17. PauloHRC

    PauloHRC God Like

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    If you don't want to cut/drill your fairings, just go for the swingarm pivot fixed ones!!

    The no cut bungs are a way around the problem but will be slightly more prone to bending having a secondary fixing point.

    Low speed or stationary drop both will do the job of keeping your engine cases off the ground.

    High speed, bike is gonna be a mess no matter what protection you got on there. Especially if it hits a curb.

    I've over analysed this over the last 20 years and its just not worth the bother.

    Just put the best you can afford on there and hope you never drop it......simple!!!
     
  18. Broadie

    Broadie Active Member

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    RG is well thought out and works pretty well at speed. The grade of the bolts are designed to bend not shear.
    A mate destroyed his bike, he was quite pleased to get £2000 for the frame and engine. Worth the money in my opinion.
     
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