Damaged engine mount thread

Hi guys,
I have found after my bike has had a number of problems recently, crash last November, rocker cover gasket, charging problems (see my other post) and now I have found the right side crash bung wouldn't tighten as before.
I took it back to the garage where it last was worked on and they have confirmed my fear; stripped thread.
I have looked on various forums and YouTube and found the best solution is Timesert which my local Honda dealer uses from what I understand but the garage have said that this will de-strengthen that engine mounting point/lug and to instead use a longer bolt with a nut on the end.
Your thoughts/advice would be much appreciated.
Cheers
Paul

 

Hi Paul, for the bonus of others I will add my reply to your PM here.

As I say in txt etc the problem is Timeserts are a countersunk fixing, drilling and fitting them ideally needs to be done with the engine dropped down so you can drill and tap with the Timeserts tools and then screw in the fixing, as I have not done a RR6 blade I'm not sure if it's possible to fit one trough the frame fixing, with all others like Suzuki etc it's not possible as the hole needed for the sert is bigger than the access hole! The garage also said to you to use a nut on the inside of the engine mount, the problem with this is the moulding is often not flat so the nut sits at an angle, it's not ideal, if this were the only option I would like the mount to be flattened off so the nut sits flat.

 

I had a gixer mount strip after a bung hit the ground.
Helicoil worked perfectly for me and was still nice and
Secure three years later when I was selling it.

 

I've done loads of GSXR' s mainly as people cross thread them fitting R&Gs etc, all three methods of Coils, Serts and nuts, I flatted the mount at the rear if using a nut but the GSX is easy access so not a big deal. The best option is a sert fitted correctly.

 

Thanks guys. The surface for the nut has been checked and I've been told that this is flat to not complicate matters.
Me being me I want to get it done properly so for the timebeing was thinking of using a longer bolt and nut but then doing what is needed to make the thread right.
I have looked at YouTube for information on Timesert and they look the best but as you have said the engine needs to be dropped to get to the area to be repaired which results in £££ :0(

 

In that case a nylock nut would be as good as anything just have to hold it when removing etc.

 

Yep, if flat I would just use a longer bolt with a nut on the inside. This was always my biggest fear with my last rr8, no matter if I supported the block, cleaned the threads, went slowly by hand, it always seemed to wind out some alloy thread. Luckily i never stripped a thread but can see how easily it can occur. Unlike yours, the rr8 isn't flat on the back, and it would have been a right ball ache to fix.

For this very reason I won't fit crash bungs again. If I want the plastics off I don't want to have to wind out my engine mount bolts. Only ones I'd fit would be the ones that have the holes the same size as the bung so you can get the plastics off easy. Anyway, good luck sorting yours.