Hi all. I’m running a PCV with custom map which has some areas that could certainly be smoothened out. Having had a custom map been done before I thought it was excellent, but so many people are doing ECU flash these days. Just wondered if anyone had any views having had both? I’m based on Isle of Wight so I’d happily head over on the ferry to find somewhere decent on the south coast. Blade below (was on 44 Teeth if anyone watches)
There are no opinions here, only facts. A flash is a generic map that may or may not be ideal for your bike, if you have modifications such as exhaust then you are likely to get next to no benefits. If there are a number of flash options and one was done on a bike with your exact spec you’re onto a winner but it will still be muted for safety. A custom map is set to YOUR bike. No questions asked. It will get the best from YOUR modifications, YOUR bike. Bikes have such cheap limited hardware to monitor and control fuelling you can’t really rely on auto tune in maps, where as some cars are extremely accurate these days. Hunting an extra 2bhp is pointless, have a poo before you go for a ride if you’re that bothered about the last tiny bit of performance. But the smooth throttle and fuelling will change the bike like you couldn’t imagine. I have mapped quite a lot of cars on Omex, Emerald, MoTeC, Apexi, Mega squirt, and a couple of dodgy ecus. The basics never change. Same for bikes, I have never mapped a bike, but engines is engines. Just my 2p.
Yeah sounds like some sound advice. I’m looking to make sure the bike is running at its best, not looking for massive HP gains so the custom map seems to be the way to go. Thanks for your help I’ll contact the local mappers
Your other option is to close loop your fuelling. In the case of PCV that's adding an Autotune. I installed one on my previous blade and it worked very well but only after very careful setup. To help with the my mapping I also had POD-300 to capture real-time AFRs, rev, TPS etc. After a few controlled runs I did end up with super smooth throttle response and better fuel consumption, no flat spots and torque forever up the gear range based on my 'bum' dyno! Expensive way to do it but at the time I was changing a few things ie exhaust, hi flow filters, pair bypass etc.
Personally I would always go for a flashed ecu after having had both now. With a flashed ecu they can do other things as well like deactivated fuel decel cut off, o2 sensor delete, lower fan cut in temps etc etc. With fireblades a power commander only controls 4 injectors unless you go for the extra module and for the price of a flash and possibly dyno run tune I thought it was a much better option but I suppose if you like to mess around with all that then you may want to go down the power commander route.
A power commander is a toy that intercepts the signals to and from the ecu and changes them. A remap enables the ECU to make those changes internally by changing its set points and values, that is the correct way to do it. Power commander is a bolt on box and has value but is the lowest form of control like any piggy back controller. A flash is a generic map/program that was developed on someone else’s bike but won’t be optimised to your bike. A full remap is a dyno operator sitting for hours setting up the ecu to the mmmmmm your specific bike with no compromises. Many options are available to add things like quick shifters, pops and bangs if you wish, over run fuel cut on or off, the limits of a full remap only end with the person doing the work. Electronic control is what I do for a living, have done it for 29 years, programming is something I do daily.
Thanks guys. I’ve used an auto tune before, thought it was just getting further and further away to be honest. Target map was set up by DynoJet too. I guess I’ll be getting something done in the winter months
Agree it was definitely not plug and play!, there were areas where the AFRs would 'runaway'. Looked into briefly but read up that a cause of this is exhaust reversion confusing the sensors. After a few controlled runs was able to identify these and set appropriate thresholds/and or just set to open loop. After a while the AFRs hardly budged. First time it was an interesting project not sure I would do it again
I put a Rapidbike Evo on my 2017 and it hasn't been the great success I hoped for. I'm going to get another dyno run in the spring to check it and decide if I go for a woolich reflash.
