Got home, washed the bike, left it in the garage for three weeks and the engine won't fire up now! Charged the battery, cleaned its contacts, opened and soaked the contacts in the starter / kill switch in WD40, checked the fuses, but the engine still won't fire up. When I turn the ignition on the fuel pump primes the injection system and when I push on the starter switch the battery + starter cranks the engine as normal - but the spark plugs don't seem to get any power as if they were shut off by the ECM. My suspicion lies with potentially corroded contacts on either the CKP sensor (crankshaft position sensor) or CMP (camshaft position sensor) both located below the tank. Before I start digging below the tank I would like to check if there are any DTC codes stored in the ECM memory. Does anybody know what to do to get the DTC code(s) blinking on the clocks? Do I need the special tool called "SCS CONNECTOR" to short the terminals in the diagnostic plug to read the code(s) or would a piece of wire suffice? Is the HDS Pocket Tester easily available and how much it costs? Do I need to clear any DTC code(s) in order to get the ECM to "unshut" the ignition system? Could the spark plugs be flooded and how to dry them (without pulling them out of course)? Any advice would be much appreciated!
Kill switch still on or water in the kill switch? Were they corroded.Are you getting the feed back out of the kill switch?
The kill switch is sweet I'm sure, had it opened and soaked in WD40, the contacts were bright gold when I put it back together! Same with the starter switch (part of the same assembly).
OK, you could try my method when my bike failed to start.... Remove fuel pump relay, crank for 20 seconds, wait a minute, crank another 20 seconds - then while cranking replace fuel pump relay. DOn't twist throttle - with luck it will fire
When you switch on with kill switch in 'off postion' move switch - you should hear the servo motor whizz for a second - if it does that its not the kill switch. side stand switch similar test - it should not turn over with stand down in gear (kind of obvious)
The tilt switch fuel cut off unit is also an item to check also. A pinched fuel line has also been a previously mentioned problem so could be worth a check. By the way how do you know you are not getting a spark? Did you actually test this or are you just assuming its not getting a spark as bikes not firing up?
Cheers guys, a lot of good advice here! I will now focus on getting the fault code blinking on the dash. If no luck then will try cranking the engine with the fuel pump relay removed to dry the spark plugs in case they're flooded, I will check contacts on the side stand switch, tilt sensor, crank shaft and cam shaft position sensors. How do I know that I'm not getting a spark? I'm just guessing this as everything works as normal, the fuel pump makes its usual noise, the ECM allows the engine to be turned over, can't be a pinched fuel or breather hose as I haven't lifted the tank yet, the fuel should be fine as the engine run perfectly until I washed the bike and left it in the garage 3 weeks ago. The question is - if there is a fault registered by ECM and the ignition is shut off, is it enough to rectify the fault (i.e. clean a corroded contact) or do I need to clear the fault in order to get the ECM unshut the ignition system? Anybody knows?
How much time are you prepared to commit to this fault? A main dealer should be able to identify the cause within 30 mins.
2 Sinewave - I'm prepared to crack it as I'm a problem solver in my soul and that's what I do for living as a Design Engineer! Failing that the bike gets picked by the dealer.
Update - fitted new spark plugs and air filter, checked all connectors I came across, took out the IACV valve (Idle Air Control Valve) and checked it's spinning when wired in, got rid of the the old fuel and put fresh in. The engine starts and runs at the hit of the starter but there's still a problem - the engine idles at approximately 2000 rpm and the speed slowly fluctuates between 1200 rpm and 2000 rpm until it's hot - then it settles down and idles correctly at 1200 rpm. Any ideas what this could be? I'm not getting any error codes and the IACV is spinning when taken out and powered. I'm also getting correct resistance on its terminals and the continuity of the circuit between the IACV valve and the ECM is OK.
An update if anyone's interested: an ECU reset solved the idle speed fluctuation I mentioned earlier. Went for a test ride last Sunday and did 280 miles with no problems whatsoever (apart from the ache in my left wrist ) and even noticed a slight improvement when shifting from 1st to 2nd. It cost me a lot of time to sort this out on my own but I learned the bike a bit and in the back of my mind I know that everything was put back together correctly.
yeah a ecu reset does fix it but I did find A couple of weeks later it started. wonder if the change in temperature has any affect on this problem?
ECU reset: start the engine and let it idle without touching the throttle until the fan kicks in - then turn it off. (I got this info from this forum and it seems that it is a common procedure with most modern ECU controlled engines out there.)
