OK, I've got a mate/mechanic who's let me down and buggered of to Morocco of all places, so I'm going to do this myself. I'm blessed with a reasonable amount of common sense, youtube & this forum. So I guess it's a case of being methodical and taking my time etc etc. Obviously the DOT4 is a well known paint stripper and there seems to an 'unknown to some' bleed nipple on the front master cylinder itself... The kit is for front & back (Front will be each seperate direct to the Master Cylinder) & Clutch. If i'm honest, it's the clutch that's slightly worrying as I've never had anything to do with them, I assume it's the same process as the brakes..? So i'm armed with my £5.00 Wilko spanner set, Halfords Brake Bleeding kit, bog roll and a hip flask of Disaronno.. Extra tips & advice would be peachy, I shall brace myself !!
Nope.... With what I've read I don't think I'd attempt it if it was .... I did see a cracking youtube on techniques, I think it was an R6- about 8 minutes long, obviously the same task at hand... I'm now briming with confidence !! God help us !
Piece of piddle mate... i did very similar myself over winter:- - replaced OE front lines with 2 "caliper to master" HEL lines - replaced OE rears with HEL line - bled clutch I would say, you are going to need the following: - nice clean area... you dont want dust/crap getting in the lines or reservoirs - lots of rags, cut into thin strips, that you can wrap around the line ends when you disconnect the current lines, and around the nipples when you disconnect the bleed tube after bleeding - torque wrench... the Hel kit will come with nice new crush washers, and you should tighten to the specified torque on each banjo bolt Other than that, theres not a lot to it... just remember to bleed the front brake master cylinder BEFORE you start bleeding to the front calipers.... take it steady, dont rush.
Also, while I remember, I found removing the screen made it a lot easier to top up the front reservoir whilst bleeding... especially if your bottle of DOT4 is full. I also found removing the right-hand switch block (the one with the kill and starter buttons on it) made it much easier to connect the new hoses to, and bleed, the front master cylinder.
Thanks Guys, All done, no drama's.. The three things I found to look out for ... 1. Gappy, your so correct, doing the double banjo for the front was very restrictive, but sorted. 2. There's an internal clip that hold the exsisting clutch line thats a bit of a pain to get at as it faces inwards behind the frame. 3. The rear brake exsisting banjo is obviously a special with a couple of wires coming out of the housing (I used the exsisting one but with new washers) , i'm assuming this is for brake lights? Its a pair of wires so as you do up the banjo the wires tighten and twist. again, it's quite fiddly but if you twist the banjo as many time in the opposite direction before you do it up then theory says its ok.. Probably easier to disconnect at the other end, but I really couldn't be arsed as it seemed to dissapear into the depths on nowhere. The only extra I had to do was loosen the left hand side of the fairing so I could eventually take the old clutch line out and feed the new one in. Anyway, job done, bleeding worked well, test drove yesterday & i'm a happy bunny! Well done me.... !
