Hiya, been a while! Thanks to my mate Steve PM'ing me I've logged back in and caught up with some of the shenanigans some of you have been up to! As I always posted my trip reports on here, I'd thought I'd share a recent one with you, albeit on a BMW...not a Fireblade <ducks>. My friend and I were going to originally ride through Germany, Switzerland, Italy and Austria but as the weather was complete pants for the week we decided on Plan B. Go where there was sun. The only place where it was likely was Northern Spain and the Pyrenees. So we rode there through France and lots of rain. We camped in lots of rain. I spent a lot of the time with wet hands and feet. You get the idea. Anyway, we got to the Pyrenees and were so glad we did. It was stunning with mind bending roads. I fell in love with the place from the get-go. It is now officially my favourite biking place on earth...until I find the next one. We rode back through France afterwards and managed to visit Normandy on the way home. Here’s the panzer loaded and ready. A bit of background. I used to tour on my 929 Fireblade (used to post my reports on here) but last year went through a marriage separation and the Fireblade was sold to keep my head above water. Fast forward to this year, I wanted a bike that suited what I like doing most…touring. The big Beemer ticks all the boxes and so much more. It was the first thing I bought for myself after the breakup. New beginnings and all that… Anyway, I was up at 03:30 and couldn’t sleep so got to Clacketts Lane services on the M25 by 05:45. Our train wasn’t until 08:50 and we had planned to meet an hour before. I was more than a little excited. I sent a text to my mate to tell him I always already there and I received a reply that simply said ‘c**t’. We got onto the 07:50 train in the end. The train wasn’t as busy as I thought it would be, maybe the weather forecast or the footy had an effect. Once off the train, we headed through North France, avoiding toll routes. We found some ok roads, but nothing special. Anyway, we thought we were avoiding the rain and then it came…and it didn’t stop for the rest of the day. I have to say that my Richa textiles didn’t let in a drop of water for the entire week away and they were tested to the max. Well recommended. My Alpinestars boots and gloves didn’t fare so well but hey ho, you have to take the rough with the smooth sometimes. ‘Do you know what they call a quarter pounder with cheese in France?’ The rain just kept coming and there was a heart-in-mouth moment when I overtook a car, opened up the K12 and the rear tyre slithered and the bike felt like it was going to have me off. Luckily it caught grip again and the bike straightened up. For a brief moment I thought I was off and decided to treat the big girl with a bit more respect from then on. Petrol wise, we had no issues at all getting petrol and we filled up in some rural places…and it was a Sunday. The sat nav sent us through some interesting villages, including this one called Armentieres-sur-Avre. Fans of Medal of Honour: Allied Assault take note. After a very wet ride we got to Le Mans at 16:30 and decided enough was enough and found a campsite. It was 24 euros for both of us and our tents. Pizza and beer was consumed and we dried off. Slept well.
The next day was much of the same, we decided to head south west and get as far as we could. We hoped to get to Pau but only managed as far as Bourdeux. Ate lunch in La Rochelle. It pretty much rained form 11:00 on wards but there were periods of dry weather from time to time. I was really fed up with this leg as we took the road from La Rochelle to Bordeaux which is parallel with the coast and was there vicious side winds which had me struggling to keep the bike in a straight line and kept getting pushed to the left. Quite scary at times. We managed to get to Bordeaux by 17:00 and ended up riding through the city, it was very nice but we needed a campsite so started looking. Found one in St Symphorien and she charged us just 14.50 euros for both of us to camp there for the night. The rain kept coming and it was sideways when I was trying to pitch my tent. Was really fed up but the thought of getting to the Pyrenees kept me going. What a difference a day makes. Up early and out on the road. Yes, more rain but when we got to Pau, it was warmer and drier. I headed to a local Decathalon and bought a new tent as my Halfords £20 job was shit. Beyond shit. Anyway we headed out of Pau and decided that Jaca would be a good place to head for. The view of the Pyrenees just drew us in and the weather improved, the roads got twistier and the views were become jaw dropping. We arrived in Jaca at about 14:00, found a campsite (10 euros a night each). The views from the campsite were breath taking.
We decided to head out and explore. We found some great roads but decided to take the N240 towards to Pamplona. What a road! The previous 2 days of misery was worth it. Eventually we got back to the campsite at 8pm and head for the bar. Lots of beer and paella consumed that night.
The next day was all riding. After a Spanish omelette and tomato bread for breakfast, served by a stunning Spanish waitress, we headed east along the N260. What a flippin’ road. The weather was glorious and that road just kept giving, especially the twisties through the gorges. We stopped for lunch and then rode it back, it was that good! I was knackered by the evening and more beer and great food was taken on.
The third day in Spain was a little less intense. I had been bitten on the ear and it had swollen up to the extent that wearing my crash helmet was really painful. We didn’t follow a plan but just explored, again finding some great roads but by lunchtime I told my mate I was heading back. So we agreed to part ways and he went off finding trails for the afternoon on his Tiger while I made my way back to Jaca. I was in a lot of pain but pain killers and anti histamines did their job…and more alcohol.
On the Friday, we had to start heading back and we decided to do it by peage to get lots of miles covered. We managed to managed to get back to Le Mans by teatime and covered just shy of 500 miles. Campsite found in Saint Calais (20 euros for both of us) in and we headed into the small town for food. It was like it was stuck in time but the people were friendly enough.
Saturday. As we had done so well on Friday, we had to sometime to play with on the way back to Calais so visited Omaha beach and the cemetary. I’ve never been before but would like to go back and cover that whole area sometime. The ride back to Calais was a mundane affair and we got back for our train at 18:50. It wasn’t ideal the way we did it but it was fun and I fell in love with the Pyrenees. If we had stayed to our original plan of riding in central Europe I’m sure it would have been miserable but sometimes being flexible pays off. I want to go back to the Pyrenees next year but I will take the ferry there and spend a whole week because we only scratched the surface this time.
Excellent write up and pictures, was it just a phone you used to take them ? Good work with sticking with the tent, even in the rain, I sometimes head for a motel ! A bit of cloud cover in northern Spain was probably welcome ? as it can get fiercely hot down there. I like the retro tent, looks like an old Force Ten - made of cotton ? How did the HJC helmet cope with keeping the little flies out ? - my old Arai used to let them in through the vents and I would get little flies crawling around my ears - but this Shoei is much better. That N260 is a cracking road, some really stunning sections - just looking at it on a map you can see this is going to be good. Like with your ear, something did my eyelid last year and it swelled up quite big. Now, if I remember, get a little 100 ml bottle of 90% Alcohol or little travel bottle of antibacterial hand gel from a supermarket for things like that. Wild place the Pyrenees, and love camping there. The Fireblade will carry a small tent and camping stuff, so these camping trips are doable on the Blade. But everything has to be kept minimalist (had to sell the big heavy Hilleberg tent). Look forward to more write ups even if you are riding a panzer ! (I might get a ZZR one of these days).
Thanks Mattie! All pics taken with my iPhone 6s. They came out well. I used to take a dslr with me on trips but I don't bother anymore as phone cameras tend to do the job. The old tent is my mate's, he's had it for about 30 years I think! The HJC kept the flies out well, great helmet for the price. I'm already planning how I can get out there next year and take in the Picos as well. Great area.
