Guys Just fitted some Venhill race lines on the front of non abs 2013 Blade.After 1300miles original pads were down to about 1.5mm so changed them to Ebc gpfax pads. Fluid changed and calipers cleaned etc but unable to stop the front wheel dragging, which it has done for, we'll for ever really. Is this normal? If not what is the way to stop this? Also the front brake has always been a bit spongy at the lever(asv levers fitted from day one)even with hew braided lines and fluid change and bleed. Is this all typical Honda,dragging brakes and spongy brake lever??? Cheers
Spongy lever wise. Bleed brakes as usual THEN bleed again at the master cylinder using the bleed nipple.
Mine always dragged a little , but spongy brake lever ....... never Prob a bit of air still in the system
dragging wheel is ofter caused by wrong fitment of the front wheel( see manual for the correct way, theres a special sequence of fitting the wheel) or dirty caliper pistons, meaning the pistons and pads don't loosen up after breaking, but niether of these 2 would be on a bike this young with so little miles, presuming, the first tyre still and first set of pads(now 2nd)
Dealer put new tyres for track use on some 300 miles/5 months ago, can't believe they would have got it wrong! Pistons etc given a good clean when I changed pads, I can spin front wheel and it stops in less than 1 rotation. Kinda thing I have not taken too much attention of before. Dumb question so apologies , the brake caliper pins do they need any kid of grease on them to allow the pads to move freely? Think I will take calipers off spin wheel to c if axle problem
it is possible that the front wheel was mounted in the wrong assembled.. example - My R6 that I just sold I had to assemble the wheel as follows NSTALLING THE FRONT WHEEL The following procedure applies to both brake discs. 1. Lubricate: wheel axle oil seal lips 2. Lift the wheel up between the fork legs. 3. Insert the wheel axle. 4. Lower the front wheel so that it is on the ground. 5. Install the brake calipers by installing the bolts, and then tightening them to the speci- fied torque. 6. Install the brake hose holders by installing the bolts and nuts. 7. Secure the wheel axle by installing the axle bolt, and then tightening it to the specified torque. 8. Tighten wheel axle pinch bolt 2 , and then pinch bolt 1 to specified torque. 9. Retighten pinch bolt 2 to the specified torque. 10. Tap the outer side of the left fork leg with a rubber mallet to align it with the end of the wheel axle. 11. Tighten wheel axle pinch bolt 4 , and then pinch bolt 3 to specified torque. 12. Retighten pinch bolt 4 to the specified torque. 13. While applying the front brake, push down hard on the handlebar several times to check for proper fork operation. Before I thightened the axle bolt I also used to push down on the triples to center everything....... If I didn't do it corretly then my wheel would drag alot, otherwise I could spin it 2 -3 times round... I must say though that I do remember having a heavy front wheel on my 08 track bike, it wouldn't do I spin either, I just can't remember if I sorted it out before I sold the bike Take the calipers off and open up the pads a bit, install the calipers, but don't brake, and the wheel should spin freely, if not theres another problem, if so the clean the pistons Get some dishwashing liquid and water and a toothbursh ( preferably not your missus if you don't want trouble ) and clean around the pistons, also take one pad out at a time and brake a few times to push the piston out, clean it, then push the pistons back in and put the pad back in continue to do the same for the others until all are done.... Just make sure you don't pop out the pistons, so take your time...... If none of the above work than I'm out of ideas...... best of luck mate!
1500 miles out of a set of pads doesn't sound right. My 2012 front wheel spins relatively freely with little drag (as did the one on my previous RR8). I normally get 10000+ miles out of a set of pads. Are the front spacers in the correct sides? (they are different widths - not sure if it is possible to get them the wrong way round)
I got a 2012 model with 1600 odd miles and no issues with pads, im like Ian ^^ get quite a few thousands of miles before they need looking at. 1300 miles sounds mad, are u slamming on the anchors everywhere you go??
Trust me on an island with a speed limit of 40mph ....No. But I hammered it around Le Mans in August for 3 solid days in temperatures of 40 degrees plus...strange I have taken the calipers off today and spun the wheel and runs nice n smooth and stops after about 4-5 turns. With the calipers back on I am lucky if I get 1-2 turns. I fitted Ebc race pads yesterday and had a run to bed them in today ,quite impressive especially when the rear end came up off the floor. Not sure if I have to put a bit of copper grease on the brake pad pins or what, so it's not an axle issue. or is it just typical blade brakes?
40 mph I was finking of coming to Jersey in the bike for few days next yr n pop over to Guernsey to, no good for biking then u fink??
I would have to say Guernsey would be a bit of a no go as the island is quite a bit smaller, here if it's good enough for "Fast bikes" magazine to keep coming over then yup it's a great place to come. There is a large biking community here ,especially when the sun comes out and temperature is 20+degrees. Great views, restaurants and some good motor sport events too.
Something doesn't sound right to me, but then how hard are you spinning the wheel as it's all relative to how many rotations you get. That's not meant to sound patronising, just really hard to compare on that basis. 2013, 1300 miles- is that the total mileage on the bike? 1300 miles sounds low mileage for a set of pads, but suppose it how it's ridden that will have a huge impact on this. I personally wouldn't use washing up liquid to clean brakes/pistons- I'd use brake cleaner and if available an air line. I have used copper slip pins with no apparent issues but have switched to red rubber grease after I read somewhere it's better. I'd also use it round the piston and dust seals after a good clean.
Absolutely all relative I know, but a noticeable difference in rotation with no calipers compared to calipers fitted and pads obviously rubbing discs. I have used brake cleaner and the pistons are nice and clean, well from what I can see, yea it's a new bike,but it was hammered at Le Mans over 3 days on track as mentioned bless it. Don't really want to take it back to the dealer, may pop in and have a chat though with their mechanics, bike stops fine but still got a spongy feel to it though at lever which are asv type.
I have a 2012 model that has exactly the same problem. I haven't gotten to the bottom of it yet, but my thinking is the master cylinder isn't fully releasing all the pressure and is just holding the pads in the disc and not letting them release fully. Will let you know if I manage to sort it
Yeah would be interested if you sort it out. I have asv levers on mine, unlikely that these could be the problem. I may swap Brembo m/cylinder off my gsxr1000 just to see if their is a difference in the feel, drag on wheel...
