HEL Brake Lines

Discussion in 'Mods, Upgrades, Accessories and Products' started by BoroRich, Sep 30, 2013.

  1. BoroRich

    BoroRich Elite Member

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    How difficult are they to fit?

    What's involved.

    Figured I could add it to my list of winter jobs.
     
  2. Jonnymac

    Jonnymac Active Member

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    Fitted them to many bikes. As long as you are ok with bleeding brake systems they are a piece of piss to fit. take of your old lines, put new ones on and bleed them up.
     
  3. BoroRich

    BoroRich Elite Member

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    Nice one. I've got a Mityvac pump for brake bleeding but to be honest I've found that pumping up the pressure on the lever, opening the bleed valve and then closing it once the lever goes to the bar works just as well.
     
  4. arthurbikemad

    arthurbikemad A very helpful Gent

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    I only ever use suction bleeders to help me deal with fluids, I.e remove it, replace it, the final part of bleeding should always be done in a tradition open, pump, close, release method. High end masters often draw and pump fluid much quicker than OEM masters so the job is easy even without suction devices. Ultimately most masters and calipers have flawed bleed design I.e bleed nipples in low places, some like PFM take design to a new logical level and place them at the top and they can be gravity bleed.. :)
     
  5. BoroRich

    BoroRich Elite Member

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    I found my Mityvac pump was pulling a lot of air bubbles due to a poor seal on the bleed nipple. I couldn't tell what was coming out of the lines and what was leaking into the tube from the outside.

    With the pump, open-nipple, close-nipple method it seemed much easier.

    Good idea of removing the fluids with the Mityvac though. I hadn't thought of that. Guess that's why they pay you the big bucks, Art :D
     
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  6. Slick

    Slick Elite Member

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    The job is even easier if your lines are made properly ie the banjos are in the correct orientation and lengths are just right so they fit nicely into the existing brackets. Clean your banjo bolts before installation they will have swarf inside.
    Not a fan either of using vacuum to bleed, as you said it pulls air from the threads, fit some speed bleeders (8mm on the MC, 7mm on the callipers) makes bleeding using the lever a piece of cake.

    The hardest bit is removing your old lines without getting the old fluid everywhere. Had my bodywork covered in bin bags and bath towels. Also had a bottle of S doc cleaner and a hose on standby if there where any spills.

    Changed the lines on my ABS last week, first bleed was with some cheapo DOT 4 when I was happy there was no air flushed it out with ATE Blue Racing fluid.
     
  7. BoroRich

    BoroRich Elite Member

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    Yeah I was paranoid when I just changed the fluid on mine. Cling film over everything and towels everywhere. When I'd finished I took the bike outside and hosed the sh*t out of it.
     

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