I've fitted my wheels after having new tyres fitted. Instructions for fitting the front differs from the downloaded manual to that of the manual the bike comes with. I followed the bikes hand book and installed the axle, torqued up the left side pinch bolts, then torqued up the axle bolt, then the right side pinch bolts. I done it this way because I don't a large hex to fit the axle. In the downloaded manual it says hold the axle and torque up the axle bolt then torque up the right side pinch bolts. Bounce the forks to seat the axle then torque up the left side pinch bolts. Which method do you use, the hand book mentions the axle being flush with the fork leg and mine is out slightly. I also have a lot of drag from the pads on the discs and the wheel spins a turn to turn and a half max but the wheel spins freely with the calipers off. So not sure if it's fitted right or lined up correctly. Any ideas?
I have just done mine and the manual does seem to say something daft . I just put the wheel in .Knocked the axel in slightly greased up, the hex side should be flush and i had the little holes lined up at 12 /6 oclock not sure what they do i tighten the little nuts on the fork legs a bit then the axal nut and then tighten the fork nuts again there is just a little bit of brake bind but the wheel does run without stopping before its due.The manual also saysreplace the caliper bolts (i dont think so).
I just put the axle through, torque it up and then just tighten the axle pinch bolts in no particular order. Having said that I do have a large hex key thing. Never had a problem yet.
Do it the way the downloaded manual says as you should always bounce the front suspension to realign the inner fork tubes, then tighten pinch bolts.
the caliper bolts are meant to be replaced (I recently found out) as they are stretch bolts and not suitable for re-use although having said that they are pricey. I am having mine replaced by Dobles with no stretch bolts when I get new rubber tomorrow as thats going to save a fortune. Might make earings out of the stretchy ones!
My Haynes manual doesn't say to do that. Not that I'd suppose it matters in my case as I'm working from a headstock stand so the fork tubes are fully extended when I tighten them up.
Amen. I've had my calipers off 4 or 5 times in less than a year and they go right back in each time. AFAIK the reason you're supposed to replace them each time is because they're pre-treated with thread lock. I just whack some blue loctite on them before they go back in.
I do my front wheel the way I have done all of them. Nip up the axle, bounce the forks, torque axle And pinch bolts.half the times I don't bother with A torque wrench as I think yout get the feel for How much to tighten bolts.
replace bolts after every time wheel is off?? fuck me,i can change my front 4 times a day on track,times that by 20+days on track.thats a big fuckoff bill for bolts!!! 1.put wheel in place 2.put axle through 3.put on bolt+tighten 4.tighten pinch bolts 5.torque up axle bolt. no need for the big hex key.
I've tightened the left fork (or right depending on which way your looking at it) pinch bolts first to hold the axle in place as it just spins around when I try to tighten it. Then I've torqued up the axle and then tightened the right side pinch bolts to finish off. I looked at this business of feeler gauges between the caliper body and disc and the distances were not symetrical and as it says in the handbook and I can physically pull or push the left fork leg to adjust this gap. Does this even make a world of difference?
