I decided to take the plunge and carry out the intake flapper valve modification. Okay it was a bit tricky to make sure the flap spring did not enter the realms of the airbox but really it was quite easy. First thoughts of riding is how much sharper the throttle response is, especially at small throttle openings, this was much nicer around town and in stop start traffic movements, second is the way the bike does not pop or fart when the throttle is closed so it is a lot quieter on the over run, also my hunting idle has now but all dissapeared and seems much smoother at tickover.
Peter I've been thinking about this, what year is yours on and will it be the same on my 2011? Any ideas or links to how to? Thanks.
Okay here is what i did. First of you have to remove the 3 securing plastic clips that hold the inner plastic covers that are located on the inner fairing snorkel intakes. You need a small pin or screwdriver to push the inside of the clips and then they pop out by some 2-3mm, pull these gently out, this enables you to remove the plastic covers, be carefull as they have some small locating tabs on the top so best wiggle them out rather than using brute force!!! Inside you will find a vacuum valve which looks like an old fashined retard unit from a distributor and if you are to young to know waht this is it is a round metal dish that resembles a wok with a tube connected to it and a long metal rod that controls the valve. You need to rotate this some 20 degrees to allow it to become unclipped from it's plastic base, also you will find a solinoid which has an electrical connector attactched in the same area. Looking into the front intake area you will see the actuator rod that is clipped into the plastic flap, gently prise it out using a long screwdriver, then you are left with the spring which needs to come out too, hook a piece of wire ( Coat hanger is perfect) to the end of the spring nearest the intake first, this releives the tension and will stopp it shooting into the airbox, then with the same long screwdriver push the other end of the spring out from its locating. Remove the vacuum unit but replace the solonoid as this will show up a fault code if not put back, cap the existing air line with a M4 bolt or something like that and that is it, job done.
After reading some research into why honda put these in was beacuse of stringent niose laws which are needed in the japanese market.
Great thread, Peter. I'll bet there's a shit load of guys on here already planning out tomorrow morning in the garage. Cheers Ken
Are you sure about that last bit ... I fitted a set of race carbon air tubes to mine ages ago so everything is gone . I have not had a fault code come up on the dash . (mines an 08 but I doubt if there's any difference within the model years)
Surely this topic has been done to death by now? It's been proven not to increase power and is normally done to make room for HID ballast. Loads of info here:- 08 Flapper mod : Honda CBR 1000RR Motorcycle Forums: 1000RR.net Do it yourself intake duct mod : Honda CBR 1000RR Motorcycle Forums: 1000RR.net
