Hi..I really hope someone can help me here again ...honestly you could not right a book on it..I was at m o t yesterday getting bike through...the bike has been running fine for a year...and starting up turning off with no problems at all..same thing happened one year ago ..I went to the center he put it through the usual things ..lights indicators head stock all the standard stuff ..then put it on the rollers testing brakes etc..no problems not even a minor defect..so that's me ready to go ..low and behold the bike doesn't start..what is wrong here then I said?? We are here to test them not fix them..well the bike has been running fine for a year until you got on it..so I got jump leads it fired no problems got home thought flat battery..and it's a brand new battery I had put in aswell..so going out again same thing happens over and over and will only start on jump leads..the exact something similar happened last year at m o t ..what could this he anyone?? I had to bring a battery pack with me as having to turn engine of getting petrol etc..could anyone know what the issue could be ..I am thinking of ringing them today as well and ask what the f*** is going on aswell..is there anything I could do about this also?? Matt
I don’t see what the tester could do to cause the issue other than be leaving the ignition on too long and the lights draining the battery enough for it not to fire up. You say it’s a new battery, but have you checked your regulator rectifier to know it’s being charged correctly? There are posts on here by those more knowledgeable that tell you what you should be seeing (volts/amps wise) on a meter.
Yes true..but it is strange that I had the bike out that day for an hour and it was starting up absolutely fine never an issue ..am not very knowledge when it comes to things like that checking volts /amps etc I don't even know what it's supposed to be at..any help there on how to check and what it should be ?? Matt
And isn't it maybe just ironic that after a year and things fine getting it m o t then them short 10 minutes something happens there and then
@Muffking @Slick or some other boffin on here has posted about such checks previously but I’m struggling to find it. No doubt this thread will get picked up by someone in the know to assist.
nothing scientific but does your headlight get brighter when the jump leads are attached, also does it spark when you put on the leads, If the battery is charged the jump leads should not spark or make the lights noticeably brighter, You could try and put it on charge and see what current it draws if you have one that tells you, fully charged it should be less than an amp
I'm with boothman on this. If it a new battery it's probably gone the same way as the last one due to not charging. Running charge rate needs checking looking for around 14volts. Regrec could be suspect or loose cabe / plug. MOT tester definitely not at fault and won't appreciate being accused.
Time to get a meter out and check the charging circuit if this was me. It’s very simple to do and you tube has plenty of clips on what you need to do. A simple meter is a tenner and good enough for what you need. Definitely doable honestly. You could always buy a cheap volt meter and temporarily install it so you can keep a watchful eye on the values. What caused you to replace the battery in the first place ?
Had some starting woes a while back see tread for ref: https://www.1000rr.co.uk/threads/weird-rectifier-regulator-readings.30620/ In the end it was a burnt stator, common problem on the CBR. A voltage and continuity check on each phase should diagnose that quickly. I have a permanent LED voltage meter on the side of the bike so I can see both standing voltage and charge voltage, should be above 14 when running and ideally above 12.5 when off. Another common problem is the starter motor, the magnets can become dislodged making starting much harder
I think one of the most useful things about the digital dash from 17 on is the voltage meter showing standing and when running. Always check mine as I put the key in, plus keep it on trickle charge when garaged after the cameras kept active after switching ignition off once and half drained the battery.
Only gets back to this problem now regards this problems. This is the it went at the weekend...the bike had been sitting idle for a couple of weeks..so jump started it with the battery pack..then noticed after a while slowing down for traffic etc..the dashboard lights etc start going out..I have to keep reving it to keep it going..when riding pretty fast it keeps going...then finally it stops at lights. So kept the battery pack contacted to the battery to get going again. And kept riding until the power run out on that as well to get home which never happened..so am thinking its the charging system somewhere..I don't want to leave this into a dealer..if its the sator I think can get I reconditioned one if it is that am I better with a new one? I can use the meter tomorrow what is all the readings I should have on checking everything in the charging system then pin point it from there..probably the easiest thing most could do but it's only easy if you know how???
Not sure of the readings, but you should be able to go between all the yellow wires and get the same resistance, as in if you numbered the yellow wires 1 to 3 then if you measure 1 to 2, 1 to 3 then 2 to 3 they should be fairly close, if all close is probably down to the rectifier circuit,
As Jez has said…….firstly you need to locate the connector that comes off your stator. It will have 3 yellow cables. Set your meter to ohms (the omega symbol) at one away from the lowest range and put your probes on any two of the yellows. Check value. Leave one probe attached and move the other to the remaining yellow. Check value. Cross reference against all variables of yellow combination. The readings should all be very close. Using the meter on a continuity setting…..either a beep will sound or check meter value when you touch probes together…… measure that none of the yellows are to ground. No beep from meter or a shorted value. If you do have a beep or shorted value you shouldn’t have…… disconnect the yellow connector block and prove whether the connector going to the stator has a grounded cable or whether it’s the other side, going to the regulator rectifier.
Its probably a bit late, but you would normally start checking voltages etc whilst the bike is in one piece and running,
That picture I attached was just something i had put up of Google just to get a idea of the charging system...the bike is still together will do them checks with the meter...if it is the satori is it possible to get a reconditiond one and rectifier..or just something straight from a honda dealer?
