Just like to know what everyone's is set too ? I think mines on 55 - 65 seems fine changes nice just wondered what other people used ? Or what HM themselves set the blade on Thanks
i use 55......seems to work no probs..... have had a few false neutrals (hairy moments) ! on the way down though.....
well mine was entering gerrards at about 100 + and part of almeria circuit..... at about the same.......all i kept thing was......."Dont Panic Mr Mannering Dont Panic" !!!! "
Was quiet a moment motor cross riding the blade through though that bloody gravel run off at Almeria !!!!
Kill times depend on where in the rev range you like to shift, midrange will be around 62 and upper (redline-ish) will be around 55 or less! Sens will/should be set on each bike and will very depending on what rearset (OEM often need near 100%!). As for shift direction make sure you select what direction yu require or when you down shift it will kill the motor for no reason, also when selecting N some bikes can stall!
Arthur you seem to be THE man that knows all there is to know about the fireblades. Hopefully getting my new 2013 blade next week. I have a hm plus quickshifter to put on it from my gsxr1000k2 and would like to know what settings you would use for a)track and b) road with standard pegs. Regards and roll on the warmer weather
I'm still learning mate...lol As for best settings if your after a clean shift it all depends on where you like to shift, best times for towards red line/track is around 55ms for the road lets say mid range around 60-65ms basically if the bike lurches then your kill time is to long if its hard to shift then it's too short, it should be slick, try to keep your shifts in the same region of the rev range you can set your shift light to match the shifter..! Sensitivity is different for each bike so you need to set the sens to show SHIFT on the display just as it clunks into gear, finally the shift direction is down to your setup, try only to use one or the other not both or you will kill the motor for no reason... Good luck with the new bike mate.
Thanks for the reply...interesting comment ref lurching, on my gsxr changing up into 5th on the back straight at le mans, before you go under the LE MANS sign the old girl was lurching so bad as though it was not in gear ! Bit like trying to hang on to a bucking bronco....I had no idea what the heck was going on , as the other gears were nice and smooth with the shifter. Thought it was a gear box problem !! It was a bit of a wild ride, hopefully just the kill time then . Thanks
No prob mate, ergonomics are a big factor too, be sure you set your shift peddle to be clear of your boot, I set them so they are above the riders boot (if standard pattern) so be aware that boots can interfere with things if its knocking the peddle around... A shift light is a must if racing or track as it gives a clear signal of just that, where best to shift... don't get me wrong you can short shift the HM but it will only be really slick where you set it, if the delay time is long lurching will be worse top end, if its short it will be harder to shift bottom end, the sweet spot is often around 58-62ms IMO for midrange to upper. Top of the line shifters can be mapped for gear position and rev range but GP BIG bucks, HM shifters are still the best around for the money, after that you could spend thousands to get close! I do believe HM have GP tech shifters if your minted....lol
Interesting thread as I've just fitted the HM plus. After a couple of test rides I find the gear change is quite "clunky", I have the sensitivity set to 80% and the kill time to 65ms, I'm aiming to change midrange of the rev range. Should I change the kill time or the sensitivity to try to smooth out the gear change and remove the clunk...I use race pattern gear change on an 07 bike ...
If by clunk you mean a lurch then as reflected by your current kill time Id say it's too long, shorten it to around 60ms. As I say in the thread if too long the bike will lurch as the kill time is so long the bike will slow up for a period of time before drive is restored to the wheel, (I.e) as the motor pics back up again and drive is restored the bike will leap/lurch forwards with a clunk as you say.
Not so much a lurch, it's more like when selecting first gear when stationary, your get that clunk in the back wheel, it does seem a little smoother if I really pin the throttle open and go higher up the rev range, though I don't really want to be pinning the throttle all the time ...
65ms is a fairly long kill time tbh for mid range you should be more around 60-62ms IMO. How's your chain tension? I guess your only quick shifting from 2nd gear onwards? Have you tried a lower kill time? The clunk into 1st is caused by clutch drag while in N, when first is selected the basket is stalled (clunk) and does not spin again until the clutch is realised... quick useless fact...lol
