The 2022 updates changed the rear sprocket from 40T to 43T and made some adjustments to a number of other components and systems. If I were to buy a 2020 bike and change the gearing and get it remapped, could I approximate the latest changes for (probably) less money? Or would it just be simpler to go for a 2022 bike to start with? I think I know the answer but I would appreciate your opinions. Thank you.
In my opinion.. yes you could buy a 2020 bike.. change the sprockets and re-map it. I would do that. The newer bike has updated air velocity stacks. You can buy aftermarket ones.
I've changed the sprockets on my 2020 from 16/40 to 15/42. Now that Woolich have finally cracked the ECU for the 2020 bikes I'll be getting mine mapped fairly soon. There were some other minor changes for the 22MY to improve the mid-range, including the velocity stacks as Saqib mentioned, but the gearing change is the most noticeable. I'd choose a mapped 2020 bike over a standard 22/23.
Thanks guys. Makes sense...and would be more cost-effective I think. I noticed that Woolich had cracked the ECU @dgr did you find that dropping a tooth on the front sprocket made the bike more "lairy" on the road - or is it OK?
@dgr did you find that dropping a tooth on the front sprocket made the bike more "lairy" on the road - or is it OK?[/QUOTE] I find the 15/42 gearing has improved the character of the bike. The stock gearing was so long that, combined with the exhaust servo (which I have removed), it was a Jekyll and Hyde experience. Toothless below 6500rpm and mental above it. The fuelling needs sorting for the new end can and lack of servo, but the map will sort that.
I find the 15/42 gearing has improved the character of the bike. The stock gearing was so long that, combined with the exhaust servo (which I have removed), it was a Jekyll and Hyde experience. Toothless below 6500rpm and mental above it. The fuelling needs sorting for the new end can and lack of servo, but the map will sort that.[/QUOTE] Thanks - it looks like every corner is a first gear corner from what I can see (stock form) but perhaps the 2022> is better and the bike is either on or off...
dgr when you changed the gearing from 16 40 to 15 43 did you get any warning lights or any other issues,,or did you get a remap straight away
I changed to 15/42. I thought that was short enough and it fits better with the standard chain. I haven't seen any warning lights, apart from a couple of very brief TC light flashes. Sprocket changes are rumoured to affect the traction control and possibly the quickshifter. I haven't seen any evidence of that, but I don't ride like a hooligan. I haven't had it mapped yet, but when I do the ecu can be told about the new sprocket sizes, which should fix any issues with the TC.
thanks for your feed back,im tempted to fit the 43 rear and put the 16 f back on, i dont want any issues,with the warranty,cos my QS keeps playing up sometime it works sometimes it doesnt,its done it since ive had the bike
I fitted a 15 font and 43 rear for Portimao, awesome with no lights on the dash. Bike was an animal..... Now back to standard stock settings for the road.
cheers jay, so no problems at all ,did you have to get a new chain or was it ok,,but why did you change back to std for the road,
Hi buddy, No problems at all and i kept the original chain. i changed back to standard sprockets when i needed a new chain. As the chain was 2 years old and had stretched a little over the 2 years. I will be going back to 15/43 for the summer. Standard gearing it is more gentle in damp/slippery conditions where 15/43 is very aggressive and not for damp/slippery roads !! i went for the Sitta Sprockets. very hard wearing, better than Renthal IMO. Well worth the extra pennies too.
Another thumbs up for Sitta sprockets, Having used Renthal for over the last 20 odd years. Quality in my opinion is superior, slightly more money but definitely worth the extra! I’m running 520 conversion together with the new DID ERV7 lightweight race chain. Again another quality bit of kit. Anyone looking for the OE newer 16T Front 43T rear with the 525 chain I’ve virtually brand new set 600 miles and like new for sale. Would just require a new soft link.
thanks guys for your advice regarding the gearing,ive got a sitta rear 43 sprocket,which iv had for months, i will now fit over the weekend fingers crossed i dont get any issuses,
So, do I need a ecu reflash to change the gearing? I'm thinking 15/42 for tracks, this might vary with a mix of 15, 16, 40, 42 and 43. But the road is likely to be 16/42.
Yes, there is no way to calibrate the TC without changing the parameters in the ecu, and, as far as I am aware, that can only be done using Woolich Race Tools, or something similar. I don't ride on track but I changed the gearing to 15/42 from the stock 16/40. The later models use 16/43. I find 15/42 fine on the road, but the later models might have different internal gearing. If you're going to rely on TC on track I'd be wary of changing the gearing from that set in the ecu, you might find it doesn't work as expected, and find out the hard way.
I've just returned from my first track day on a 22 with standard gearing. It was shocking, turning nearly every corner into a first gear exit. I don't mind the odd first gear corner but it was just too many. I put a 15f on and made a heap of difference. I did notice that my indicator lights on the dash were flashing as though hazzard lights where on but I think that's to do with ABS if I'm not mistaken. Also the gear position digit flashes on and off in every gear including neutral. Other than that I didn't notice any problems with traction control.
I've got a 3 day track day booked to get used to the bike and I'll just play around with it and see what happens. Probably change to 15fr with standard rear and then go back with standard fr with different 42 rear. Bit of a ball ache but what else is there to do
